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#21
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Quote:
Right, you have a primary pump that circulates water through the boiler. Then you have secondary pump(s) most times known as zoning pumps depending on your setup. The pressure reducing valve on a typical residential installation cuts water pressure to 12 psig which pretty much catches most residential requirements. Whether to leave the boiler feed open or not depends on preference. Leaving the valve open allows the system to maintain consistent low end pressure while the system burps air and replaces fantom loss during operation. However, most guys, myself included, recommend closing the valve once initial filling and burping is complete. For applications that subject loops to freezing, ie snow melt, you risk dilution of the glycol to a point of freezing in off cycle. The biggest reason for home heating is simply flood protection. If the system developes a leak while occupants are gone for any length of time, major damage can occur. Periodic checking of system pressure and opening feed valve is recommended for best results Sounds like your fine, maybe turn your feed valve on and turn all the zones on so they run for a while. Be sure the air separator cap is open 1 turn. But do have the original installer come in for a consultation, get educated and get to know them. They will be your best friend on a 5* day if it's not operating. Good luck!
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#22
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+1 on what Trent said.
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#23
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If you are motivated, I suggest drawing a schematic showing components in the system, boiler, pumps, valves, etc. Then when the installation mechanic reviews the system with you, you can add notes and settings for each component.
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1863, 1864, 48" and 54" mower decks, 54" snow plow, 451 snow blower, TracVac 580 |
#24
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I have the same type of system at a vacation home. I had an issue where I shut off the water to the house, but leave the boiler running. I have a reverse osmosis filter under a sink, and an ice maker, so even when I shut off the water, there are a couple things that can drain the water pressure left in the lines. When the water pressure in the lines dropped, the boiler expansion tank still had pressure in it, causing the backflow preventer to vent out the water in the boiler expansion tank instead of flowing backwards into the water lines. As long as I keep water pressure to the boiler, it keeps the backflow preventor happy, and doesn't dump water all over the floor. (which now I have the back flow preventer vent line dumping into the sump pump)
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