782 with 18 horse magnum starting issue

[ol'George]

I would not use silly-kone in that position, pressures can reach #80 on a cold start.
If you decide to remove the flywheel, check that the maggots (I kain't spell magnets) that they still are securely glued to the flywheel.
After all these years, a lot of the KT's/Magnums have come loose.
Do not try to pry on them, just visually check them.
If they are loose, they most always have moved together,
in-other -words
The spacing is not the same between each of them, the loose one(s) will migrate together, like flies on fresh cow chit.
If that is found to be the case, mark the magnet with paint a stick, as the polarity does matter on them so it is reinstalled/glued as you removed it.
If polarity/spacing is not maintained, it will not produce sufficient current.
I hope all are still glued as new.

[heinriech]

Well a few pictures and more issues.

Going back together:








Now onto more issues. Started up great after reassembly, drove down the driveway and back. No issues. Idled while installing blower and chains. Backing into the garage tried to rev up and see if it would take a load. Sputtered and died, wouldn’t restart. Let sit for a day. Tonight fired up for about 20-30 seconds then died and wouldn’t restart. Pulled plugs to check for spark. Right plug soaked, left plug dryish. Burnt raw fuel out of the plugs, checked for spark and both plugs are firing as expected. But this is when it gets interesting. The right cylinder starts to puke gas out of the spark plug hole. I am guessing I need carb rebuild. Can anyone suggest rebuild parts/kit? Should I pull the whole intake or is it just geometry why the right cylinder was full of fuel and left didn’t?

As always thanks for all the help!!

[heinriech]

some research turned up 25 757 11 for the rebuild kit. Seems to be correct kit, can anyone confirm? Also if I am filling the cylinder with gas I would say I have a float issue any solid way to verify if the float is working correctly?

[ol'George]

The needle valve either is leaking because it is worn or has crud under it.
A kit is easy to put in.
Just remove the carb and clean it and replace the needle/seat.
Float should be level when then carb is held in inverted position.
Crank the engine over with plugs out, blowing the gas out. it should also clear out with evaporation.
Advise you change the oil before you do anything more than run it to see if the carb is ok, as the gas could have been leaking into the crankcase thinning the oil.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by ol'George

The needle valve either is leaking because it is worn or has crud under it.
A kit is easy to put in.
Just remove the carb and clean it and replace the needle/seat.
Float should be level when then carb is held in inverted position.
Crank the engine over with plugs out, blowing the gas out. it should also clear out with evaporation.
Advise you change the oil before you do anything more than run it to see if the carb is ok, as the gas could have been leaking into the crankcase thinning the oil.

I don't think you can do the seat on a walbro carb.

But I agree with the diagnosis. Also want to make sure the float doesn't have a pinhole in it and isn't sinking.

A lot of folks like to put a kohler/carter style carb on instead of the walbro. I don't generally have a problem with the walbros, but I do like the kohler/carter style ones better. The adjustable main jet walbros are better than the fixed ones though, FWIW.

Also make sure you clean the carb really well when you have it out. I like to pull out the welch plugs and make sure those passages are clean. The kits I buy come with new ones.

[dodge trucker]

Both of my KTs have Kohler carbs, both of my Magnum twins have walbro carbs,. Some walbro carbs do run alright, the early ones with 2 mixture screws seem to not be as troublesome as the ones that only have 1

[heinriech]

Well I have the kit. But little shocked by the price: $54 with tax. Isn’t a new carb just a bit more than that. I am not going to tear into it tonight. Hopefully tomorrow.

[ol'George]

That is a little pricey, usually about $12 on ebay

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by heinriech

Well I have the kit. But little shocked by the price: $54 with tax. Isn’t a new carb just a bit more than that. I am not going to tear into it tonight. Hopefully tomorrow.

Yikes. Yeah the iSaveTractors one is like 59 I think.

I usually pick mine up off e-bay, but it's not an OEM kit.

[heinriech]

Well got the carb apart and everything looks good, little dirty but good, EXCEPT the float, it is about 3/4- 7/8 full of fluid (gas I assume). Pretty sure that is an issue. Not sure I can see throwing another $25 at this thing, but I need something for the snow coming this weekend. Guess I will have to pay to play.