1450 Front Axle Play at Pivot Pin

[CADplans]

Originally Posted by ol'George

A self locking nut will eliminate a lock washer.
Or you could go to the trouble of drilling the bolt and using a castle nut.

I do not think there is room for a castle nut,,,

The nut shown being used in the pics is a jam nut,,, VERY thin,,,

[AL Farmall Boy]

Originally Posted by CADplans

I do not think there is room for a castle nut,,,

The nut shown being used in the pics is a jam nut,,, VERY thin,,,

Now here is an idea from McMaster car. Have any of you used this? What do you think? A shoulder bolt!

[AndrewNoyes]

Interesting idea. I don't believe you'd be able to thread deeper if needed, I believe they are quite hard. I also am a little unsure how well one would take a shock load. It might fracture. They are very precision. If you need to thin the head, the hex socket might be a bit shallow. But I guess if you have problems with it, you can simply replace it.
Other than those concerns, it seems like a cool idea to me.
However, for my tractor, i think I'd still prefer a grade 5 or 8 hex cap screw.
Good luck!
Andy

[finsruskw]

While you are in there, check the bushings for wear or damage.
It does happen!!
Don't forget the grease valley in the bolt if you go that route.

[GERKS 149]

Someone needs to make a bolt like this and sell it. Probably a lot of takers here

[finsruskw]

Probably cost more to machine the grease valley in a hard bolt than anyone would pay for it.
Damn near $10 just to ship one of them.

[GERKS 149]

I would pay the price for a good bolt made the right way that could squeeze the axle and have the grease valley made into it. Nobody makes one yet. It would sure solve the problem for many Cub lovers

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by GERKS 149

I would pay the price for a good bolt made the right way that could squeeze the axle and have the grease valley made into it. Nobody makes one yet. It would sure solve the problem for many Cub lovers

In order to squeeze the axle it would have to be too long to remain in place without cutting one end off.

I think the OEM pin will provide the best results, proper fit in the bore and the correct hardness for the application.

[finsruskw]

Simple.
Use along enough bolt (with the axle removed of course) to squeeze the channel back to spec's, remove it, and replace with the correct length pin or bolt.
May take several snug ups to et it back to spec as it will spring back out some when backing off the nut.

That's what I do w/all my cubs when they are on my table.
Nothing like a nice, tight front end and steering assembly.
Makes these little machines a joy to drive!

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

Simple.
Use along enough bolt (with the axle removed of course) to squeeze the channel back to spec's, remove it, and replace with the correct length pin or bolt.
May take several snug ups to et it back to spec as it will spring back out some when backing off the nut.

That's what I do w/all my cubs when they are on my table.
Nothing like a nice, tight front end and steering assembly.
Makes these little machines a joy to drive!

X2 on that,
a tight front end is always a good thing!!