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  #1  
Old 12-12-2020, 03:26 PM
rfedeleo rfedeleo is offline
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Default Inconsistent cranking on SLT 1554

Over the past few years my cub cadet has become harder and harder to start. Nowadays it has to do with finding the "sweet spot" on pressing the brake and then turning the key. Whenever I hit that sweet spot on the brake it will try to crank but I have to try and hold the pedal at that exact spot until it turns over. But sometimes when I think I've found the sweet spot it tries to crank once and then nothing...or if I lose that spot on the brake pedal it stops trying to crank and I have to start over playing with turning the key and trying to find the sweet spot on the brake again. I was told first to test the brake interlock switch which made a lot of sense after I read what it does... However I took it off today and put it on a millimeter and it seems to work fine, that is 2 sides are always closed and the other 2 sides are closed when the plunger is pushed in... So now I'm at a lost as to where to go to next. Is there anything else that would give me an inconsistent cranking that would appear as if it was my brake pedal? I'm thinking maybe it just seems like the brake has something to do with it but really there is something else further down the startup process?
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2020, 03:38 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Sometimes continuity disappears once amperage is applied.
Try jumpering the switch as a test only.
I do not recommend permanent use of a jumper especially on a brake safety switch.
I suspect that might help you find the problem.
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2020, 07:56 AM
rfedeleo rfedeleo is offline
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Ahh thank you! You learn something new every day. Very useful bit of knowledge for future troubleshooting on other things as well. Googled it as well to get more info on it.
https://electrical-engineering-porta...ing-continuity

From the link:

Often, a circuit where there is an open circuit fault can register excellent continuity with a low power tester or ohmmeter. But when a voltage is applied, current may not flow.

The reason for this is that the circuit may be partially continuous (Example: a partially burnt cable where one or two conductor strands may be making contact) but when feeding a heavy load it will behave as a high impedance.

This type of fault will be detected by testing on load using voltage measurements.
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Old 12-13-2020, 09:51 AM
Red Dave Red Dave is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfedeleo View Post
Ahh thank you! You learn something new every day. Very useful bit of knowledge for future troubleshooting on other things as well. Googled it as well to get more info on it.
https://electrical-engineering-porta...ing-continuity

From the link:

Often, a circuit where there is an open circuit fault can register excellent continuity with a low power tester or ohmmeter. But when a voltage is applied, current may not flow.

The reason for this is that the circuit may be partially continuous (Example: a partially burnt cable where one or two conductor strands may be making contact) but when feeding a heavy load it will behave as a high impedance.

This type of fault will be detected by testing on load using voltage measurements.
Yes, a high resistance connection. Ohm's law rules.
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Old 12-16-2020, 07:26 AM
rfedeleo rfedeleo is offline
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So I installed the new interlock switch but still the same problem. I am charging the battery now just incase it is that but the symptoms are the same in that I have to find the right spot on the pedal to at least get it to attempt to crank and when I do it get it, it might try to crank once, stop, and I need to start over... Before all this started getting worse I used to be able to simply press the pedal turn the key and the thing would continuously tried to crank until it turned over...One thing I did notice was that after a failed crank I hear a hissing sound like something releasing air not sure if that indicates anything...
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Old 12-16-2020, 02:54 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Please explain your definitions of:
A. "turning over"
and
B. "cranking"
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2020, 03:24 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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not to sound like a broken record...check your grounds- every one of them including the engine to frame strap and the battery to frame ground! Then clean every plug (and consider Dielectric grease on all of them) including the safeties and the ignition switch. Check connectors held on with bolts/nut verify they are clean and tight. I use anti seize on any single terminal connector. DONT use antisieze on multiterminal connectors it can flow and short/shunt/etc.
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2020, 06:06 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
Please explain your definitions of:
A. "turning over"
and
B. "cranking"
I have the same question
to me they are the same.
Cranking and turning over means the engine it rotated by means other than under it's own power, whether it it turned by a starter, rope or a crank like the
vintage vehicles did in wooden wheel days.
An engine cranks till it runs on it's own power or the external provided rotation is stopped.
Example:
it cranked and cranked, till the battery went dead but would not run.
OR:
I turned the key, but the starter would not turn the
engine over, it did nothing
Or: I turned the key and the starter ran but it would not crank the engine,
I think the starter is defective.
OR:
I turned the key and it cranked right up, purring like a kitten
Clear as mud?
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2020, 06:41 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Or how about....

I tried to get cozy with my honey,
but she was cranky.....
so I turned over and went to sleep!
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2020, 07:07 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
Or how about....

I tried to get cozy with my honey,
but she was cranky.....
so I turned over and went to sleep!
I think you been reading too many of my posts.
But I will not derail the train or Roland will get "cranky"
And we know what that means.
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