129 transmission is making loud grinding noises

[sawdustdad]

You moved the neutral adjustment bracket. That's the problem.

It's not in neutral any more with the brake pedal down. Put it up on jack stands. Bypass the brake pedal switch, move the speed lever while you try to start it. It will start. Hit the brake pedal and see where it is. It will be moving one way or the other. With it still running, adjust the neutral adjustment bracket as described previously.

[mickb72]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Mick...wait a sec....you're talking about the pin at the engine side coupler, right? That's the one I replaced...so it's new. I don't discount what you're saying, but - if the pin is sheared - why would the engine have run perfectly fine for at least 15 minutes the first time it started? So you're suggesting it broke after the 2nd time it would started (yesterday).

Is there a way to remove the shaft WITHOUT also loosening the pan bolts and moving the engine front? I don't see any spare room to get the shaft in or out otherwise.

No, not the front. The one on the coupler at the pump you never had out. I think you can get that shaft out if you drive out all the pins and slide things around. If that pin is sheared at the back getting that one out will be tricky. Mike

[ironman]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Ironman...hindsight is indeed 20/20! Never thought about starting the engine first. It seemed, though, like with where the engine gets placed relative to the bolt holes, there's very little clearance for that driveshaft to fit in place - so I wanted to get that in right away, move the engine back into position, then tightened up the 4 bolts. Probably bad judgement (again) based on inexperience. Was looking at the shaft again last night....without loosening and moving the engine, what is the best way to remove it? Hammering out the pin where it couples to the engine would appear to be not that easy. I had the shaft held in a vise when inserting the new pin (replaced it when I also ordered and replaced the fan) and really had to whack on it. If I loosen the shaft at the disc coupling...is there then room to take it out and simply pull the coupling out from the engine side without having to hammer out the pin?

You have done all this work and still keep looking for the easy way out. Simply take the hood off (2 bolts), remove the front grill (4 bolts), jack the front end up, remove motor mount bolts (2 easy, 2 pita), slide the motor forward, remove the tunnel cover (4 screws), remove rag joint bolts (2), remove driveshaft, slide the motor back into place and secure with the two easy bolts. Now you can run your motor and determine that it's not your problem and you have peace of mind with that.

All that should take about twice as much time as it took me to type this (I'm slow). And then you can positively address the hydro or coupling pins it that's where it's at.

[three4rd]

An update....just started up....all is well...running fine for at least 10 minutes, although still a bit uneven - I suspect some carb adjustments are in order but would like to make sure the tractor won't move first before doing that. Anyway, I shut it off, restarted, still fine. Talked to the mechanic who built the engine - suggested possibly air locked in the system somewhere (?)

So now...shift lever is in neutral with tractor stationary, but then when I press the brake pedal down it wants to move in reverse. So back to jacking up, once again loosening the cam bracket and making minor adjustments - which is where I was yesterday till (whatever) started causing noises.

Ironman..thanks...appreciate the detailed breakdown of everything. Tunnel cover has been off ever since yesterday. I type fast but work slow

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by mickb72

No, not the front. The one on the coupler at the pump you never had out. I think you can get that shaft out if you drive out all the pins and slide things around. If that pin is sheared at the back getting that one out will be tricky. Mike

Appears I don't need to take out the shaft at this point...thanks though.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

You moved the neutral adjustment bracket. That's the problem.

It's not in neutral any more with the brake pedal down. Put it up on jack stands. Bypass the brake pedal switch, move the speed lever while you try to start it. It will start. Hit the brake pedal and see where it is. It will be moving one way or the other. With it still running, adjust the neutral adjustment bracket as described previously.

At this point - I'd say no need to bypass the switch - being that it now starts normally (?) So just jack up (can't get my stands under the axle - doesn't fit in there so I just have a few bricks / boards under the edges of the mower deck to keep the thing on an even keel, so-to-speak) and make small adjustments to the bracket position? Manual says to move the bracket as high as it can go - then shift lever in forward.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Next time I tried to start, I hear the loud grinding noises (more like screaming). If I turn the motor real slow, I can hear clicking noises - seems especially to affect the shift control / trunnion shaft area when turning the engine real slow by hand.

Originally Posted by three4rd

An update....just started up....all is well...running fine for at least 10 minutes, although still a bit uneven - I suspect some carb adjustments are in order but would like to make sure the tractor won't move first before doing that. Anyway, I shut it off, restarted, still fine.

So no more noise or what?????

[three4rd]

No more noise....seems fine.....what remains is to do carb adjustment and get this neutral situation resolved so that I can press and lock the brake pedal down without the hydro wanting to go in reverse (yesterday it was forward) Good fortune has seemingly smiled upon me...

[ironman]

Roundin' third and headed for home is a brown eyed handsome man!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqY7...t_radio=1&t=26

[cooperino]

You will be drinkin a cold one and sayin job done before ya know it!