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  #1  
Old 07-10-2018, 11:42 AM
CC1572 CC1572 is offline
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Default Cub 1572 hydraulic leak from driveshaft

So I'm dealing with driveshaft vibration and it's worn out the bushing or bearing? in the hydraulic pump ,causing a leak, and I'm seeing some brass shavings up by the motor. I understand this is prolly a motor pull and a rearend pull type of job. But I dunno what caused this to begin with. The rag joint looks to be in real good shape. Is it just time for the bearings to go? What kind of work am I looking at here? I don't have a shop to do this work in and as much dread as this is gonna cause I want it done right. I've spent all summer fixing things that needed replaced and I'm sure this won't be cheap either.
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:52 AM
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'Sam Mac just posted a rear with ported pump in for sale thread
Not sure if it will mate up to yours.
Changing out unit would be a lot easier than trying to rebuild yours if you don't have a shop.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:15 PM
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Not familiar with a 1572, but:
If you have a Sundstrand hydro, the seal can be replaced just by removing the driveshaft and coupling/ragjoint assy.
If the bearing behind the seal is worn, it can be removed/replaced by removing
the charge pump (just 2 bolts)---- again accessible from the outside.
Now if the input shaft is bad, the hydro has to come out and apart and it is less expensive to just get a good used hydro.
You are going to have to remove the driveshaft anyway to rebuild it, as you say it is vibrating.
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Old 07-10-2018, 02:37 PM
CC1572 CC1572 is offline
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This is the area of the leak. I believe this is the same rearend you were talking about. It's been ages since I've researched this mower. But just by removing thoes 2 bolts on either side of the shaft I can replace the seals and bearings if needed correct? Are they a press fit then I assume?
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Old 07-10-2018, 02:42 PM
CC1572 CC1572 is offline
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This is the front ragjoint that ,i found some brass shavings around, shows some wear but I wouldn't deem this no good. Any opinions on it's condition?
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  #6  
Old 07-10-2018, 03:17 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Download the service manual and read it.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=25397
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CC1572 View Post
This is the area of the leak. I believe this is the same rearend you were talking about. It's been ages since I've researched this mower. But just by removing thoes 2 bolts on either side of the shaft I can replace the seals and bearings if needed correct? Are they a press fit then I assume?
Yes that is the charge pump held on with 2 bolts.
You will notice one of the ears
where the bolts go through, on the right side, has a flat milled on it.
Make sure you put it back the same way or your lawnmower will not move.
There is an "O" ring seal between the charge pump to the hydro, replace it so it don't start leaking.
You can replace just the outer seal if there is no play in the shaft.
It will come out if you put a screw in the seal between the lip and outside diameter and pull it out with pliers or suitable pry tool,
and reinstall a new one.
Or if it is stuck, you can remove the charge pump and pick it out.
IIRR the "bearing" is a needle type, not ball.
but they usually do not give trouble.
Now load and read the service manual As Sam suggested
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Old 07-10-2018, 06:24 PM
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Diesel driveline 101:

It's shot.

You will need the ball bushings on both ends. Hopefully you can save the rear splined coupling. Post some pics up when you get the driveshaft out.

Here is what the front ball/bushing looks like. These are pretty cheap if you buy them direct. Put a post in the "wanted" section. You need to press out both of yours first to see if there is any other damage and if there is not, press in the new ones.(You can use a hammer and socket to remove and install them)
DSC03395.jpg

Here is the seal you will need. National 47146
DSCN0866.jpg

I would also bet that driveshaft is worn and shot on both ends. I would contact "Jeff in PA" to see if he can make you a new one (he can) and also get rid of the pos disconnect clutch. You can save the coupling on one end of the shaft but he will need to make you a new one for the other end if you ditch the disconnect clutch. If you go this route, get the drive shaft made last. You will need to fit everything up and get a measurement for the shaft.

Replace the rag joints and fasteners associated with them.

Others have converted over to the CV style (better design) but I run the original rag joint design in all mine so far.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooperino View Post
'Sam Mac just posted a rear with ported pump in for sale thread
Not sure if it will mate up to yours.
Changing out unit would be a lot easier than trying to rebuild yours if you don't have a shop.
1572 is a Super, what I have wont work. My pump is for a GT and the gearing is different.
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1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower
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JD317 dump truck
BX2660 with FEL & Grassanator
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