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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#21
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As a quick fix you could drop the bottom bearing out and clean it up. Also dress up the cam follower pin with a grinder.
Obviously, a complete steering rebuild is the right thing to do, and neither expensive nor difficult once you collect the proper tools.
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Rusty 149 project with: QA42 snow thrower 38" deck Barn fresh 1811 with: 44c mowing deck QA42A snow thrower 42" snow blade |
#22
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I found that most killers will mess the threads up. I took to nuts the same size of the shaft put them on and tack welded them together. Then removed them and welded them solid. Then welded a thick plate on top of it. Drilled a demple in that for the puller to follow. Worked great and kept from messing the shaft up. I have found creep by seafoam works great you can see it foaming in and working.
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#23
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How much grease to add through fitting on the Ross steering box?
Quick question for everyone. I own a Cub Cadet 1710 (made in May 1985) with a Ross steering box. Naturally it has a zerk grease fitting. Now with this particular box, how do I know when I've added enough grease through that fitting? Can't exactly tell when to know from the owner's manual that was made for my machine.
I found an earlier version of an 782 series owner's manual from IH (circa 1980)that said to add enough grease through that fitting until it begins to seep out. But "seep out" from where? Where should I be looking? Thanks |
#24
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Quote:
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#25
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I have the harbor freight steering wheel puller, and a three jaw puller to pull on it but only use two jaws, then I thread the nut to flush with the edge of the threads, maybe just a hair above to avoid damage. Then I have a bolt that fits down inside the hole that has an indent on the top that the puller fits right into so it won't go wonky, and a thick washer under it between the head and the wheel nut. Spray it with some penetrant. Put some tension on it with the puller and let it sit. Sometimes it'll pop off itself, sometimes a little gentle tapping on the top of the puller will get it to pop off. Sometimes when it lets go it sounds like a gunshot. I haven't broken a steering box or damaged threads yet doing this.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck |
#26
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Quote:
If I'm thinking correctly, the cam plate is what the cam follower is attached to as well as the drag link at the bottom of that plate...Yes? Is the grease actually "seeping-out" of the gearbox between the seal & retainer...I surmise? Then I see as to why the owner's manual says to make sure to add the grease nice and slow so as to not damage the seal. I was told in the past that the excess grease would just make its way up the steering column and that there would be no clear way for me to tell that it was happening. My Ross steering box has the serial # S10200 and the tractor serial# is 2050600U747300. Just to throw that info into the mix. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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