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  #41  
Old 04-12-2021, 07:22 PM
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That engine is running really nice and smooth. Looks like you did a great job and it's really a nice runner. Take a bow!
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  #42  
Old 05-08-2021, 09:12 PM
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Well, I'm ressurrecting my 107 thread after a few weeks, as I finally did some work today. For the first time I pulled the head off the engine, and I figured out all my crankcase vent blow by issues. She's got some piston slop. Now as the story goes this engine was rebuilt and barely used, and the bore looks in good shape, so I suspect this isn't normal wear. But the real curveball is the fact that the slop is in all 4 directions instead of just side to side.

So my hypothesis is that it has the wrong size piston and rings for that bore. I can't think of any other way there'd be piston slop in all directions. The story is that the engine was bored out and sleeved back to standard, and the piston in there is stamped 'std' on the top indicating that it was indeed replaced, but I think their sleeve was actually .010 over (maybe eve, .020, but there really isn't that much slop).

With some of the other jobs I've seen on this engine, to me this isn't really surprising. I found the breather reed valve in backwards for one thing, plus there's a bunch of non-stock flat washers all over the place. Heck, one of the head bolt studs has 2 thin washers making up for a thick washer that must've been lost.

Now, here's the thing, I don't really have the time, money, or space to tear this engine apart. I can deal with the crankcase blow by, that's not a big deal to me, and at the end of the day the engine still runs just fine. So, at least for this year, I'm going to leave it be and run it as it is. I barely work it, the most it does is drive down the street to a neighbor's house and occasionally pull a yard cart.

I DO however need to change the oil again, because somehow condensation keeps building up in there and turning the oil milky white...
top of the dipstick does seem kinda loose and I'm not sure how well the rubber seals it, could also have something to do with my muffler stack. I don't know, but I sure need to find out!
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #43  
Old 05-09-2021, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
top of the dipstick does seem kinda loose and I'm not sure how well the rubber seals it, could also have something to do with my muffler stack. I don't know, but I sure need to find out!
This seems like a weakness in the Kohler. The engine shakes itself constantly and the little stamped metal stopper on the dipstick rattles itself free of the staking to the dipstick . I have one where a PO tried to braze it back in place, but brazing spring steel to soft stamped steel is apparently not so simple. I'm not sure how to fix that yet.

I think you made the right call on knowing where to stop. These things are all old, and there's a shite ton of things wrong with most all of them after 50 yrs of hard work.
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  #44  
Old 05-10-2021, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
Well, I'm ressurrecting my 107 thread after a few weeks, as I finally did some work today. For the first time I pulled the head off the engine, and I figured out all my crankcase vent blow by issues. She's got some piston slop. Now as the story goes this engine was rebuilt and barely used, and the bore looks in good shape, so I suspect this isn't normal wear. But the real curveball is the fact that the slop is in all 4 directions instead of just side to side.

So my hypothesis is that it has the wrong size piston and rings for that bore. I can't think of any other way there'd be piston slop in all directions. The story is that the engine was bored out and sleeved back to standard, and the piston in there is stamped 'std' on the top indicating that it was indeed replaced, but I think their sleeve was actually .010 over (maybe eve, .020, but there really isn't that much slop).

With some of the other jobs I've seen on this engine, to me this isn't really surprising. I found the breather reed valve in backwards for one thing, plus there's a bunch of non-stock flat washers all over the place. Heck, one of the head bolt studs has 2 thin washers making up for a thick washer that must've been lost.

Now, here's the thing, I don't really have the time, money, or space to tear this engine apart. I can deal with the crankcase blow by, that's not a big deal to me, and at the end of the day the engine still runs just fine. So, at least for this year, I'm going to leave it be and run it as it is. I barely work it, the most it does is drive down the street to a neighbor's house and occasionally pull a yard cart.

I DO however need to change the oil again, because somehow condensation keeps building up in there and turning the oil milky white...
top of the dipstick does seem kinda loose and I'm not sure how well the rubber seals it, could also have something to do with my muffler stack. I don't know, but I sure need to find out!
Just drop a telescoping gauge or bore dial indicator in the hole and you will know what the bore size is.
Also, just looking at the top of the block you will surely see if a sleeve has been pushed into the block.
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  #45  
Old 05-10-2021, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrewer View Post
This seems like a weakness in the Kohler. The engine shakes itself constantly and the little stamped metal stopper on the dipstick rattles itself free of the staking to the dipstick . I have one where a PO tried to braze it back in place, but brazing spring steel to soft stamped steel is apparently not so simple. I'm not sure how to fix that yet.

I think you made the right call on knowing where to stop. These things are all old, and there's a shite ton of things wrong with most all of them after 50 yrs of hard work.
I guess I'll have to take a look at the engine's dipstick more closely. I've never really bothered to look at the top of it closely, but I have definitely noticed that it sits on the dipstick tube a lot more loosely than the one on my 106 does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Just drop a telescoping gauge or bore dial indicator in the hole and you will know what the bore size is.
Also, just looking at the top of the block you will surely see if a sleeve has been pushed into the block.
George, what range would you recommend for a bore dial indicator? I don't own one but obviously should, and this gives me the excuse to buy one. Would a 2"-6" one work?

And I need to take a closer look with some further cleaning around the top of the bore, unfortunately all that piston slop (and possibly running rich) has left the combustion chamber in a very "carbon-ed up" state.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #46  
Old 05-10-2021, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
I guess I'll have to take a look at the engine's dipstick more closely. I've never really bothered to look at the top of it closely, but I have definitely noticed that it sits on the dipstick tube a lot more loosely than the one on my 106 does.



George, what range would you recommend for a bore dial indicator? I don't own one but obviously should, and this gives me the excuse to buy one. Would a 2"-6" one work?

And I need to take a closer look with some further cleaning around the top of the bore, unfortunately all that piston slop (and possibly running rich) has left the combustion chamber in a very "carbon-ed up" state.
2"-6" is fine, and will cover most anything you work on unless a small weed Wacker
And one never puts a head/gasket back on without cleaning the carbon first, so you should see it then.
You will need a set of mikes to set the bore gauge also.
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  #47  
Old 05-10-2021, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
2"-6" is fine, and will cover most anything you work on unless a small weed Wacker
And one never puts a head/gasket back on without cleaning the carbon first, so you should see it then.
You will need a set of mikes to set the bore gauge also.
Well I don't usually work on small weed wackers, so I should be fine there. Currently I have the head on the engine with the bolts just snug, because I didn't want to leave it sitting open. I unfortunately have to wait a few days before I can get back to working on it, so I wanted to make sure everything would at least be covered up. Won't take me more than 2 minutes to get the head back off again
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #48  
Old 05-29-2021, 07:50 PM
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Ok, time to resurrect this thread. Unfortunately I was unable to complete the swap as I had planned, because it poured rain the entire day

But I did a bit of tinkering today on the k301 that I'll be swapping in, and I found something rather interesting that explains why the tractor it came from was parked in need of attention. I'll let these pictures speak:

IMG_20210529_193335.jpgIMG_20210529_193356.jpg

IMG_20210529_193402.jpgIMG_20210529_193454.jpg

Turns out the fins at the front of the head are caked with greasy and dusty grass. This thing's head got HOT. And I don't just mean hot, I mean HOT. You can see that it blew out at the back of the head, and I'm not sure how well the last image shows it, but you can physically SEE the warping with your bare eyes. The bore looks fine, which is good.This also explains the low compression. Fortunately I have the head from the k241 to use, which is good, because I'm not very sure that this head can be saved.

The story goes that the tractor this was in drove itself to the spot that it sat in, but I'd have to guess that it didn't sound very healthy while doing it!!
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #49  
Old 05-29-2021, 08:31 PM
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Just imagine how well it's going to run with some actual compression :-).

These old Kohlers will just run and run and run. They run a lot better with some care. I'm glad you're giving some to this one. Heads can be found affordably on Ebay to replace the other one, if you wait. Someone here might have one too.


I think it might have been Fins who used the phrase:

"You've used up all the good in that one!"



PS: Great old hand truck by the way!




Good work!
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147, 122
102
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  #50  
Old 05-29-2021, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrewer View Post
Just imagine how well it's going to run with some actual compression :-).

These old Kohlers will just run and run and run. They run a lot better with some care. I'm glad you're giving some to this one. Heads can be found affordably on Ebay to replace the other one, if you wait. Someone here might have one too.


I think it might have been Fins who used the phrase:

"You've used up all the good in that one!"



PS: Great old hand truck by the way!




Good work!
Definitely needs a bit of work, but I think I'll be able to turn it into a pretty good engine for the 107 while I get the k241 rebuilt properly. I've thought about it a bit, and I'm gonna give it a go attempting to level the head with sandpaper. Might not work, but although warped, everything is intact and it might smooth out if I work at it enough. The head isn't cracked and there's no holes anywhere, it's just warped.

As for the hand cart, I don't know very much on its history, but it's big, heavy, and works real well. I think it was also free!
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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