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  #21  
Old 04-22-2021, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Fill that china fright gun with wadder and spray the outside wall of the garage.


Thanks George, that's good info. I'm more of a "preserve but use" owner, so some imperfections are fine with me. I'll give that a go next time I do this.



John
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2021, 08:36 AM
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Primer:
is is generally recommended that a 2K primer is shot on all properly prepped surfaces first as to lock out all moisture that causes corrosion.
Then proceed with filler, (bondo) and high build filler primers, with block sanding as needed for a finished surface ready for top coat.

Well I'm old skool, and like to apply filler(bondo, kitty hair etc) first because I'm used to using body lead after welding/bumping then applying 2K primer /high build filler primer.
Either way works.
Todays 2K primers do a good job of sealing the surface from corrosion,
and one tries to not scuff through that initial 2K barrier---but it happens as surely as last nights dinner passes today.
After one is happy with the smoothed surfaces you have created, shoot a final wet coat of 2k primer observing the recommendations of applying a top coat within 5 days (ya can go a day more)
do observe your data sheets and the thinner temps, and humidity is NOT your friend, it causes blotching/blushing (flat looking paint) do shoot topcoat on low humidity days in afternoon after humidity that burned off the grass has a chance to dissipate into the higher atmosphere.
Now this all sounds overwhelming, but it Ain't,
------- so does explaining how to ride a bicycle on paper.
DO wear a good respirator not a cheap China virus mask.
The VOC's in the paint are not life friendly.
There are good painter but there are not good OLD painters.
If you can smell the paint through your mask you might as well breathe toxic
poison.
A supplied air hood is really nice or a good charcoal canisters mask with appropriate over filters is good also.
Remember;
the data sheets are there to help you, also remember you have a window on can life of any product that you have mixed hardener into.
and clean up your gun first thing when you are done shooting product.
Take it ALL apart, not just washing out the paint cup.
cheap lacquer thinner works wonders as a gun/cleanup solvent.

Do wear protective gloves when handling product and solvent.
The quickest absorption rate of the human body is the hands/forearms and scrotum.
Don't spill that shit on yer balls!

I don't know how long a hobbyist will be able to continue to purchase oil based paint before we get shut down unless we have spray booths/water bourn paints.
There are restrictions now, that will only get worse.
But I'll not go into that here.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2021, 08:12 AM
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Yeah, pretty soon all the paint we're left with will be the type that is of no value (kind of like with cleaning solvents, wash machines, etc...)
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  #24  
Old 05-13-2021, 08:51 PM
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..........and by the way, thank you for that painting treatise. There's lots of good info in there. I appreciate you taking the time to type it up and share what you know.
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782D
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102
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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