Which would be the correct transmission for a 129?

[gretschwhtfalcon]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Mr. Falcon I think you need to put up a poll in one of your existing threads or start maybe one more and have the majority here decide for you whether or not to repair your tractor. I’m seeing multiple threads of you not being sure. Trust us, it’s a good investment to fix yours.

Don’t worry about the transmission it’s basically bullet proof and built better than almost anything you can get today. You’re in Pennsylvania, the absolute honey hole state of cubs and there’s about eleventy billion transmissions, engines, you name it for your cub. We are here to help, start with having the engine rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one from someone here, the time is now my good man.

Get 3 estimates and do your homework but try not to dwell on if you shouldn’t. Don’t get rid of something that’s served you well for so many years, fix it and it will serve you well for the rest of your life! There’s guys and a gal here that have what you need and then some, there’s sponsors on the top of the page that have more, trust me there’s no shortage of parts for your model

There is more than an abundance of help here. As I've often said in the past, this is really a great source of support and information. That said, though, it still doesn't get me a deck. The only ones I'm finding are in bad shape. So putting the engine in is really a crap shoot in terms of being able to find a deck. It seems doing things the other way around would make more sense...find a deck that I feel is in (hopefully much) better shape than mine and THEN do what is necessary to secure and install an engine (that part's easy...I have several options that have presented themselves here). Doing it the way I've been thinking - that of putting the engine in first - is ok but it could well leave me with a once-again-running Cub that I don't feel all that comfortable mowing with. I worry about what could happen underneath that deck while the blades are running. For that matter, the blades are pretty well worn out also...so...same issue...do I buy blades with no way of knowing if I'd even have a better deck to put them in? And, even if I would manage to get through the rest of this mowing season...what about next year? I don't doubt that PA presents an abundance of Cubs and parts - but it doesn't seem to apply to deck shells.

Yet another concern...and this is not to step on anyone's toes who rebuilds engines here or elsewhere...but why does an engine rebuild only carry a 90-day warranty? I know I've been told by several people who do this work that they've never had engines fail that they've done, but of course, like anything, one never knows what could go wrong. If a rebuilt engine fails to work after a year or so, I'll wind up back where I am now to some extent and would require sending the Cub to a local service provider.

At this point I really need to create a list of pros / cons on fixing the Cub and/or replacing it with the various tractors I've looked at. I do think I'm getting closer to making a decision but will not address it much further here since everyone's heard it all by now! Everything that needed to be said (and more) has already been said on both sides of the coin.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by gretschwhtfalcon

I don't doubt that PA presents an abundance of Cubs and parts - but it doesn't seem to apply to deck shells.

I don't believe it. I'm not being mean, but I just don't think you know where, or how, or what to use to look. You stated you weren't checking Craigslist. You should be. I hate Facebook. I'm not a Social Media kind of guy.... but there are several "For Sale" sections on Facebook, and there seems to be a large shift to that platform to sell on. As of late, I've found more deals on FB than anywhere.

Originally Posted by gretschwhtfalcon

Yet another concern...and this is not to step on anyone's toes who rebuilds engines here or elsewhere...but why does an engine rebuild only carry a 90-day warranty? I know I've been told by several people who do this work that they've never had engines fail that they've done, but of course, like anything, one never knows what could go wrong. If a rebuilt engine fails to work after a year or so, I'll wind up back where I am now to some extent and would require sending the Cub to a local service provider.

I can tell you why an engine doesn't come with a longer warranty.
There are several reasons.

1.) Majority of the part suppliers for the internal engine parts only give a 90 day warranty (some only 30 days) on part defect and workmanship. In other words, if a piston is machined incorrectly, or a rod is cast wrong, they will cover it. But only for up to the (day) limit. That's not from the date of install, or the first day you run the motor either. That's from the date of the sale. SO, if you stock parts.... you can shoot yourself in the foot.

2.) Most of the time, the engines are sold as long or short blocks. This means they don't have the ignition timing set, the carb installed and tuned, or any of the other external parts on it. So, (I'll use me) I build you a motor, but you put the points and carb on. Now, as a builder, I can suggest to you to clean the carb, and install new ignition components, but that doesn't mean you will. I can tell you, that ignition timing is critical to engine life, as is proper carb tuning. But that doesn't mean you will correctly time it, or correctly tune it. If you fail to tune it right, IT WILL kill the motor. Not maybe.... IT WILL. It's just a matter of time before it fails. There is no way a builder can give a long guarantee on something that tuning is so critical on, if he (builder) isn't the one who is doing the tuning.

3.) Most engines in the auto or industrial world also come with a mileage, or hour limit on the warranty as well as a time warranty. Well, we can't give an hour warranty on a machine that may or may not have an hour meter, and for sure you can't track miles. Days are all we can accurately give.

4.) Air cooled engines life expectancy is based a whole lot on the care it receives. These engines don't have an oil pump, or a liquid cooling system. You have to change the oil in them. You can't use them on a steep incline. You can't look down at the temp gauge and see that it's getting hot. The motor is just... there. For most people, if it starts and runs, it's good. They don't notice that it's running hot, or lean, or rich, or that the drain plug is leaking. Hell, it's rare for the vast majority of consumers to check the oil before starting them weekly. There is no safety shut down system on them in case of a lubrication or heat failure. So.... it's a BIG risk for us. We can't stick our neck out there not knowing if you ever check or change the oil. It will run without oil. No safety system to keep it from not. We can't warranty something that you let build up with grass clippings and don't ever clean and overheat it, or let it run out of oil. Even a good K series will lose a little oil. Not much, but a little.

5.) We (builders) are trying to market something that most people don't want or need. We have to keep prices to rock bottom and profit margins thin, in order to sell any motors. It's actually pretty hard to get people to pay $700+ (more depending on what you are buying) for a motor for a GT. If you want a warranty to last longer than 90 days, the price will go up. Significantly. I'm sure if you offered to pay more, anyone would extend the warranty. I would! If I have to build you a new motor 364 days after I built the first one, and this one is on my dime, I've long spent the money I made. I want to be really well paid to carry the warranty that long.
For the most part, even if you don't tune the motor well, or take good care of it, a new motor is going to last 90 days. I mean, you would have to abuse it really, really bad for it not to last that long, or it would have to be a part or workmanship err. So, 90 days is safe for us. Longer than that, and now you are getting into, how well was it maintained, and how well was it tuned. Believe me, we will know when we get the old motor back and tear it down, as to what caused the failure. If I get a motor back with a powder white exhaust valve and a piston with score marks above the rings, I'm not warranting that engine! It was overheated! Believe me... people will try anything for it not to be their fault.


Car engines.... way different. Plus, it's rare a place like Jasper Engines will sell to an individual. They want their engine to be installed by a qualified tech. They have "Certified" shops. They know who is putting their engines in, and they should be professional technicians. Plus, a car has a vin, an odometer, and good way to track how that thing was driven. Plus, every car since the 80's is fuel injected, so no tuning required. So, unless a part fails, that engine is tuned correctly. Plus, a lot of cars will shut off if overheated. Lots of safety devices for the "mechanically impaired" drivers.

Believe me.... 90 days on an air cooled Kohler is a deal. I usually only give 30 unless it's a complete motor I test ran.

Originally Posted by gretschwhtfalcon

At this point I really need to create a list of pros / cons on fixing the Cub and/or replacing it with the various tractors I've looked at. I do think I'm getting closer to making a decision but will not address it much further here since everyone's heard it all by now! Everything that needed to be said (and more) has already been said on both sides of the coin.

No you don't. Keith.... you have got to stop this ridiculous run around. Just stop. It's a freaking lawn mower. The only real decision you need to make, is do you want to spend $5/6/7000 on a new mower, or do you want to spend less and keep the one you have. That's it. With the old, you might have to work on it. With the new, it will have a warranty. Do you want a warranty, or do you want to possibly have to work on an older tractor. That's it. This is a really easy decision. If it's not, then you just need to buy the new one. If you "aren't sure" if you want to work on it, or you are scared (seems to me to death) of something else breaking, then you really aren't the guy who needs to own an old GT. You need a nice new belt driven tractor with shiny paint and a dealer backed warranty. For what all you have said you do with this thing, you really don't need a $6000+ tractor to replace it. I think a LT will suit your needs just fine. I will ad, that anyone who asks what you do with your tractor, then tries to sell you a $6000+ tractor is just taking advantage of you not really knowing what you need.

Me, I will always choose the "fix it myself option". Car, truck, tractor, lawn mower.... I seldom buy new. Rarely anything with a motor do I buy new. I am not sure I have ever bought anything with an engine brand new. Close.... bought some pretty new cars. But never brand spanking new. I'd rather let someone else lose the money in the depreciation. I'll buy it when it's down to a more reasonable price, and pay money now and again to fix it. Just like my 1991 truck I just finished the transmission and transfer case overhaul on. I've got a couple grand in it. I'd way rather shell out $2000 and do it myself, than buy a Jasper trans for $2200 and a t-case for another $900 and then wonder if I'm going to have to use that warranty I paid for. I know I did my part right, and if I didn't, it's on me. Only thing I really worry about is if that part I put in will last, and even that doesn't make me lose any sleep. If it fails, I'll fix it. THAT'S IT. I WILL FIX IT. Period. If that isn't you..... then maybe you need to go see the dealer again. Just being honest here, even if it costs me a sale.

[ol'George]

Jon, we came from the same mold.
There is nothing I can add to what you said.

[Bamafan]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Jon, we came from the same mold.
There is nothing I can add to what you said.

But will he understand it? I think not.

[sawdustdad]

I'm a little more sympathetic to your dilemma, gretschwhtfalcon. Faced with a $1000 engine repair, you are concerned if you make that commitment, will you be able to fix the deck and have a viable mower for less than $2000 invested. In a 40 year old tractor.

Most of us on here are mechanics, some professional, many as hobbyists. We are not making the logical decision(s) you are faced with. So our advice may not apply to you.

Tempering our zeal for these tractors, I'd suggest that you park the Cub and buy a less expensive lawn tractor. You can buy a new one for under $2000 that will serve you for 10 years. And you'll have a dealer to fix it when it needs it. You don't need a $6000 tractor, and you'd have to spend $10,000 or more to get one built as well as your Cub. (One that will still be working in 20 or 30 years).

Then, if you are inclined, you can work slowly on your old Cub and perhaps fix it up. Or, sell it now and apply the purchase price to the new lawn tractor.

That would be my advice.

[Lanceskene]

What was that Sept '17 thread titled??? Oh Ya...
Should I put a new engine in my 129 Cub Cadet or buy a new tractor?

10 months of free entertainment I s'pose, carry on

[cooperino]

J-Mech..Believe me.... 90 days on an air cooled Kohler is a deal. I usually only give 30 unless it's a complete motor I test ran.

I agree with this and for another reason.. gretschwhtfalcon, The reason the warranty periods are also short is simple. If you install this type of engine and there is a problem with it normally you would see or hear the problem within minutes or a couple hours into use. 90 days in normal circumstance. "lets say in summer" would give you 10 - 12 weekly uses for cutting grass. Lets say you use for an hour each time. Thats 10 hours of use lets assume in 90 days. In that amount of time if you had a workmanship or part quality issue you would know it. Ok so why not make it a longer period? Because most failures beyond that are from operator abuse, operator error, or some other mishap that has nothing to do with the build. Most builders do not know who or how their build will be treated once it leaves the shop. There is a kid on my block with a mini bike. He has put three engines in it. Not sure if they got done under warranty or not but I do know the string he is pulling on attached to the governor is whats blowing them up.. I have told him that's why he is blowing them up. Told me he learned this on youtube from another kid. YES. this is our youth. And these are the people who will be running our country one day! YAY

[ironman]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

I'd suggest that you park the Cub and buy a less expensive lawn tractor. You can buy a new one for under $2000 that will serve you for 10 years.

I gave this guy the same advice 3 weeks ago....
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...6&postcount=33
He either doesn't listen, or he is a sick individual who is getting a big kick out of jacking everybody off. He claims his engine blew on 6/28, next he was worried about wheels, then about the hydro, now he's worried about mower decks. What has he been cutting grass with since then.

He claims to have had this Cub for 37 (or whatever) years, yet he doesn't know a damn thing about it. Are you telling me that in that in 37 years he never had to touch it so to this point he knows nothing about it.? Cubs are good but they ain't that good.

He doesn't need a tractor, he needs a therapist!

[sawdustdad]

Guys, cut the OP some slack.

Which of us hasn't gone to Lowes for a new washer or dryer when the old one had a problem that we could have fixed but made the decision to replace rather than throw more money at it? Or a car.

He's a homeowner that came here for help, not a collector.

[DoubleO7]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

You don't need a $6000 tractor, and you'd have to spend $10,000 or more to get one built as well as your Cub. (One that will still be working in 20 or 30 years).

That would be my advice.

LOL, that is a pretty accurate estimate.
That 1972 +/- , 129 with a 48" deck had a M.S.R.P. of about $1800.
With inflation, that same 129 would have a M.S.R.P. of around $10,825 .
And that does not include any government and lawyer mandated safety features added since 1972.