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#1
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682 axle housing bolts broken
Hi I bought a 682 spring of 17 for 300 bucks, it's been pretty good, series II serial # 2050600u729425, I was pulling the hydro/trans unit to fix the worn trunnion and found a big problem. Of the four bolts that go through the frame and axle housing one was missing and two of the remaining three are broken off (turned out the missing one is broken off also) When I removed the unbroken one (left rear) trans fluid drained out ---- are those bolt holes open to the inside of the casing? or is the casting possibly broken on the inside? Also the bolts have six slashes so I'm guessing they are grade 8 or more. How can I drill and re-tap them since the casting appears to be aluminum? I can't understand how that hard of a bolt could be twisted off without messing up the casting. Has anyone had this problem and what was the solution? I was hoping to get it back together asap but it's not looking too good for that.
Thank you, Tom |
#2
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Per the Parts Manual, you will have the following:
(4) 710-3011 3/8-16 x 2.25" Gr 5 Bolts (4) 710-3115 3/8-16 x 3.00" Gr 8 Bolts (4) 710-3116 3/8-16 x 2.50" Gr 5 Bolts It does NOT say where in axle housing that they are located in.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#3
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the holes are open into the case , they can be drilled out or mig weld a nut to the end and turn them out . either way you'll have to take the rear cover off and remove the axles and housings to inspect everything . replace axle seals and gaskets while your in there.
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#4
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the one bolt that wasn't sheared off measures 3". does anyone know if they are open to the inside of case or are tapped into a boss? I can't really tell looking at the parts diagram. Thanks
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#5
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Thank you R. Bedell and Dale C. Oh well----- doesn't look like
i'll have it back together today |
#6
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I got into a 782 once that had been run a long time with only one bolt left in the rear/frame. Even some of the front brace bolts were messed up. Check everything over really well. The one I was working on even screwed up the driveshaft, pump shaft and an axle housing.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#7
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Well I got one bolt out and re-tapped. I didn't want to get metal in the diff casing so I took a 25# 1x2.5 magnet and taped it to a paint mixing stick and put it in the casing against the opening... one problem solved, it grabbed the shavings. Next problem was how to drill it out straight without having to take it all apart to do it on the drill press. After a lot of thinking I got a drill bit that was a slightly smaller diameter and fit in the same size bolt hole with a little bit of play, then I bolted the axle housing back on to use as a guide, then I took blue painters tape and and wrapped it around the bit until it fit in the axle housing snugly and drilled it out. Cleaned out the threads with the tap. It worked perfectly.
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#8
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Been There Done That....
Both of the left frame to axle bolts broke flush with the rear frame on my son's 1872. The bolts holes went clear through into the rear frame housing, so I center punched the broken bolts (which can be a trick) and drilled through the bolts using a series of smaller to larger drill bits. Once I had the majority of the broken bolts drilled out, I heated the rear frame housing near the bolt while using the next size bigger drill bit. Both bolts screwed into the rear frame once the thread sealant on the bolt threads got warm. Keep in mind that the rear frame housing cannot have hydraulic fluid in it and must be perfectly free of anything that can catch fire.
There are also reverse twist drill bits that can used to remove a broken bolt, but I have never used them. PATIENCE is the key. |
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