Frequent stalling - Page 2

J-Mech · #11 05-28-2018, 01:45 AM

The only screen that should be in the system is the one in the sediment bowl. If there is another, it has been added. The one in the sediment bowl is as close to the tank as it can get....

jpianalto · #12 05-28-2018, 10:20 AM

Okay, laugh all you want. I feel really stupid. Yes, it's the screen where the sediment bowl is. With it all apart and me trying to multitask, I just didn't clue in. I think I may have put it in the chem dip and it dissolved.

J-Mech · #13 05-28-2018, 10:38 AM

Just go buy a new sediment bowl and be done with it.

I don't know what you mean by "multitasking" and not "clueing in" but I'm starting to think maybe you bit off more than you can chew. I'm going to let the others help now.

john hall · #14 05-28-2018, 12:37 PM

Just re-read your original post--wow that's a ton of work done now with a mystery problem. I suggest starting with fuel flow--lots of it to the carb. If you even THINK your fuel is contaminated with dirt or water, get rid of it and replace with known fresh fuel (check your supply can, the crap came from somewhere). Once you have good fuel to the carb, then see what happens. You have a "rebuilt" engine that didn't get a valve job, new ignition parts, working on the carb, and the problem is a "moving" target---this could get entertaining. By the way, unless you got some sort of industrial grade carb cleaner, I don't think you dissolved the brass fuel bowl screen. I have heard of some of the professional grade products damaging aluminum if left in too long, but I doubt you are using that stuff.

jpianalto · #15 05-28-2018, 12:58 PM

Well I have rebuilt the carb and I'm working on vmcleaning the tank some more. It had some sludge in the bottom which I feel was the problem to begin with. I may have bitten off more than ibcan chew, yes; however, I'm smart, intuitive, and I've done this all before with success. I've rewired my cub with a new wire harness about 10 years ago too. It may take me three times longer than most and since I've been away from small engine work for about 8 years, I may have forgotten more than I learned. ADHD and CRS will do that to ya. Nonetheless, working on this cub reminds me of spending time with my grandpa wat hing him work on his in the 70s. Its theraputic. Meanwhile I'd sure like to get mummy lawn mowed. We've had lots of rain! Thank you all for your input and education. Oh and my 8yo found the screen sitting on the back wheel well of the mower. I sure wish I had a shop to do this properly but for now this giant old shade tree in front of my peaceful country house will have to do. Cheers.

jpianalto · #16 05-28-2018, 02:54 PM

Well, it's running with way better gas flow than it did before. I'm having some pto issues now. I open the grill to find only one of the 3 pto springs! Looks like I have some more work to do! grrrrr. Oh well, away we go!

john hall · #17 05-28-2018, 05:44 PM

Glad its running! Searching the forums you should find plenty of info on rebuilding and adjusting PTO clutches--I think there were 2 styles of manual and then the electric ones.

jpianalto · #18 05-28-2018, 06:51 PM

Aaaaaaaand it died after 30 min. Won't start. Maybe it will when it cools down. Sigh

jpianalto · #19 05-28-2018, 07:15 PM

It flows freely to the cab now and the carb is very clean via chem dip and rebuild. Ran 30 min and now nithing except via starter fluid into the cylinder. Maybe I'll take the carb apart and let it soak in chem dip overnight?

john hall · #20 05-28-2018, 07:32 PM

So did it just cut off, did it backfire, spit,sputter, load up--tell us how it shut down. Typically when an older style engine gets hot and shuts down then restarts when its cold its the coil. 30 min is a long time for it to be a fuel issue, unless it just happened to suck up some trash. If that's the case it could happen again in 2 minutes run time or next spring. Did you check the fire immediately upon it shutting down? How about fuel flow to the carb when it shut down?