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  #11  
Old 07-21-2017, 08:27 AM
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ol'George ol'George is online now
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It looks like there is enough sticking up to weld a nut on.
Then heat the block up with the cutting torch, concentrating @ the base of the bolt (side of the block) then put on a pair of vice grips and turn it back/forth.
you want to be careful not to break it off flush and quit before you feel the bolt "giving"
if you have any experience, you will know when you are reaching that point.
It wouldn't hurt to give it a good smack with a hammer on the nut after it is heated before the vice grips are put on.
You use vice grips rather than a box or socket, as you can feel the bolt if it turns ever so slightly, when it does, you just have to work it back/forth.

If the first try is unsuccessful, I dribble Bees wax on the bolt as it is cooling, as it will wick/draw down into the threads and lubricate.
after things have cooled, give it a second try,
Laugh if you want, but thinking positive always helps, you got to have faith.
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2017, 09:41 AM
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jaynjeep jaynjeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
It looks like there is enough sticking up to weld a nut on.
Then heat the block up with the cutting torch, concentrating @ the base of the bolt (side of the block) then put on a pair of vice grips and turn it back/forth.
you want to be careful not to break it off flush and quit before you feel the bolt "giving"
if you have any experience, you will know when you are reaching that point.
It wouldn't hurt to give it a good smack with a hammer on the nut after it is heated before the vice grips are put on.
You use vice grips rather than a box or socket, as you can feel the bolt if it turns ever so slightly, when it does, you just have to work it back/forth.

If the first try is unsuccessful, I dribble Bees wax on the bolt as it is cooling, as it will wick/draw down into the threads and lubricate.
after things have cooled, give it a second try,
Laugh if you want, but thinking positive always helps, you got to have faith.
Great advice George!! The key is patience and being able to feel the bolt move the smallest amount!!
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40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets!

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  #13  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:59 PM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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Thumbs up on the beeswax trick! Used it a few times on some very stubborn bolts on an old Model A truck. Good luck! By the way, where in MA are you? I think I had that very original bookmarked in my Craigslist app. Hats off to giving it a good home!
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Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts.
family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub.
Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors!
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2017, 04:52 PM
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smalljob smalljob is offline
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Thanks for the tips guys. Picked up some bees wax this afternoon. Several iterations of heating with MAP, tapping, wiggling, wax and it started to move ever so slightly. I didn't have to weld on a nut at this point. I also kept using a wire brush and sharp pick to get at the junction of the block and the threads so I could get the wax to penetrate down inside. Anyway after several hours it came out.

Thanks again for the great advice.


Oh Yeah I am in Somerset, MA about 30 minutes east of Providence RI and 45 minutes west of the Cape Cod Canal.
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2017, 05:50 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Glad to see you got the bolt out. I saw that Original pop up on CL the other day and thought of you, glad to see you got it.
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  #16  
Old 07-21-2017, 08:34 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Next time you see a bee you should give him a buzzzzzz
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  #17  
Old 07-21-2017, 11:10 PM
C&O2-10-4 C&O2-10-4 is offline
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Don't waste your money on a doctor; just buy another CUB and you'll feel much better in the morning.

Baldwindiesel
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  #18  
Old 07-22-2017, 08:24 AM
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Dontcha just love happy endings
Now chase all the thread's in the block, and use copper anti-sneeze so they come out easier next time.
When you fire it up, you gonna smell the bees wax fur a while.
(just like the skunk you ran over with yer truck last year Ha,LOL)
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  #19  
Old 07-22-2017, 02:49 PM
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After some yard work I had a little time to look at a the O. When I pulled the crab so I could heat the block I noticed a couple of things. The carb gasket was out on one side of the bowl and the bottom had a button that I have never seen before. Cleaned everything up and thought I would share a few pictures. Looks like this setup was so the bowl could be emptied by pressing the button. Similar setup to what I have had on Walbro carbs on Tecumseh engines. The rubber is mostly gone on this one. I am thinking that I might just JB weld the button in and leave the spring out. Otherwise this is going to be an annoying place for a leak.

Thoughts?

On a not so good note I noticed that governor arm had too much swing so I removed it from the shaft and the shaft turns 360 degrees. Guessing that the flapper broke off and is sitting in the base. Glad I didn't try to start this. Probably would have really raced.

So I guess I need to pull the engine. Oh well.... More fun
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  #20  
Old 07-23-2017, 10:30 AM
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ambrola ambrola is offline
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When you get to that exhaust mess, I have a NOS elbow and muffler if you need one. Congrads on the O.
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