Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Speciaalties R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-22-2020, 10:33 AM
Bcedmond Bcedmond is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3
Default Clutch trouble?

Hi. I am a new member and this is my first post.

I recently acquired a model 106 Cub Cadet. I also got a 42" mower deck. It is in good shape and was well cared for. When I brought it home I drove it all over the place (2.5 acres), running it through all the gears. It performed well on level ground and on my hilly places.

I put the mower deck on and tried mowing with it. It worked well. I mowed a few strips--about 100 lineal feet. When I went to put it away, it stopped moving as I was backing it into the barn. Since then I can get it to move in first and reverse, but not up a grade and not with any power. When I let off the clutch it begins to move and then stops. If I rest my foot slightly on the clutch pedal I can coax it to move. There was a lot of slop in the clutch release lever so I adjusted it (tightened) and was able to get a little better performance--sometimes. I can't see anything obviously wrong. The driveshaft turns, but the tractor doesn't move like it should.

Any advice? Is this a clutch problem or a transmission problem?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-22-2020, 12:24 PM
Cubcadet_107's Avatar
Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: New York
Posts: 571
Default

Sounds like it broke the pin holding the driveshaft to the coupling on the transmission. The reason I can tell is that you say that if you push slightly on the clutch pedal it moves a little bit. When you're applying pressure to the clutch pedal it is pushing the driveshaft back towards that coupling, producing just enough friction to move the tractor. This is a very common problem on both the gear and hydro narrow frames, as well as wide frames and even the Quietlines.

If you are unsure and would like to check and see if this really is the problem, go to the machine, do NOT turn it on, just put it into a gear, and spin the engine over by hand, and watch the rear coupling to see if the shaft is spinning and the coupler isn't. If the pin isn't broken, then it should become hard to turn and if you can turn it at all the tractor will begin to move because it is in gear.

To replace the pin, being a narrow frame machine, you will probably have to remove the rear end from the machine, as well as the driveshaft. I don't recommend you mess with the clutch because it seems like your clutch is perfectly fine. Line up the pieces of the pin, support the coupling where the broken pin is, and use a hammer and punch to drive the pieces out. Then get the replacement and drive it back in, or wait until the machine is back together and drive it in from underneath.


An image of the gear transaxle from an IH cub, the pin is in that little coupler on the input shaft going into the front of the unit
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-22-2020, 12:40 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,984
Default

There are 2 pins in that coupling.
One through he driveshaft proper and one for the transmission input shaft.
It could either one.
I'd inspect and replace them both while apart.
Be sure and get the proper spirol/coiled type pins and not a common split pin like a hardware store has.
Do not cheap out and use a bolt as it will wallow out the shafts.
Hopefully, that's not what is/was in there now
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-22-2020, 02:30 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Medina Ohio
Posts: 171
Default

if you have the optional creeper gear there is a roll pin in there too.
I agree this is a roll pin issue - CCS sells them and so does the cub dealer. If one broke you may as well replace them both. I would not pull the creeper gear off unless the other two are Not broken. If you do have a creeper I would suggest changing the oil - they are often neglected as the oil is isolated from the transaxle.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-22-2020, 03:15 PM
drglinski's Avatar
drglinski drglinski is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,939
Default

You shouldn't need to pull the rear end to get to the rear pin for the driveshaft. It's up there, but a long punch should get it out with the rear end in the tractor.
__________________
Daniel G.




.

(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-22-2020, 04:27 PM
Bcedmond Bcedmond is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3
Default

Thanks for the quick reply and the advice! I tried the test recommended by Cubcadet_107 and the driveshaft did spin freely, but the coupling also spun. There are two pins in the coupling and I am assuming that the one closest to the transmission is broken and the forward one is not. Tomorrow I will be replacing pins.

Thanks for the help!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-01-2020, 07:29 PM
Bcedmond Bcedmond is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3
Default

I finally removed the pins from the driveshaft of my 106 (no creeper) and, yes, the one next to the transmission was broken. Great diagnosis! Now my question is whether I need a new driveshaft and/or a reduction driveshaft. Both shafts have a pin hole that is a little elongated. I included pictures below so you can see for yourself. Your thoughts?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Driveshaft.jpg (23.8 KB, 70 views)
File Type: jpg Reduction driveshaft.jpg (32.5 KB, 70 views)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-01-2020, 07:47 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Medina Ohio
Posts: 171
Default

those are not too bad. you, by all means, need to put spiral pins back in, not bolts, not roll (split) pins. CC specialties sells them(sponsor above), I think Cub cadet still sells them. there are over sized pins available as well. they will probably last another 50 years.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
106, clutch, transmission

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.