127 stalling

[Alvy]

DL you mentioned in post #5 that you hadn’t tried pulling the choke yet to see if symptom improves. Have you done that and if so what are the results?

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by Alvy

DL you mentioned in post #5 that you hadn’t tried pulling the choke yet to see if symptom improves. Have you done that and if so what are the results?

That's a good question..... The answer to this would be quite significant and helpful!

[DL127]

I tried adjusting the choke to correct the stalling condition. It was no help whatsoever. I checked the float height on my new carburetor its 11/64". Tried adjusting high speed jet 3 turns off the seat. No help whatsoever. I ran a ground wire from the condenser strap to the - battery terminal. No difference. I checked the running at idle voltage at the terminal on the points its varies between 6 -7.5 volts. Also - terminal on the coil same 6 - 7.5 volts. I hooked a jumper wire from the + terminal of the battery to the + terminal of the coil. I still get 6 -7.5 volts between the points and - battery terminal. When the key switch is off I have 13+ volts across the battery. When the engine is running at idle the voltage is all over the place across the battery terminals or at the starter generator it varies between 6 - 12 volts. Could the erratic voltage contribute to the stalling issue?

[ironman]

Originally Posted by DL127

When the key switch is off I have 13+ volts across the battery. When the engine is running at idle the voltage is all over the place across the battery terminals or at the starter generator it varies between 6 - 12 volts. Could the erratic voltage contribute to the stalling issue?

I'm trying to understand this....Are you saying that when the engine is running, that you DO NOT have a steady 12 to 14 volts across the battery terminals and you DO have steady 12-13 volts across across the battery terminals when the engine and key are off. Is that what you are saying?

Also someone asked how long it runs before it dies, you never indicated that.

[DL127]

Yes I thought my digital volt ohm meter was bad. Tried a different one same erratic voltage.

[DL127]

It will idle all day long. Advance the throttle a bit the engine does within 20-30 seconds. Pull the throttle back it fires instantly and will run until it empties the tank.

[Billy-O]

I'd look around and make sure all the wiring connections are clean and tight. It might be possible the electrical could be shorting, especially when running and under vibration.

[ironman]

The voltage across the battery should not be eratic, especially at idle.
Not doubting you, but are you sure the meter is set to measure dc volts?
Also, just to double check, do you:
A. Have the wire from the points attached to the Negative (-) post on the coil?
B. Have the pigtail lead of the condenser attached to the same post on the coil as the points wire, i.e the negative (-) post?
C. Have the wire from the ignition switch via the wire harness attached to the positive (+) post on the coil?

With the key off, engine not running, measuring at the positive coil post to ground you should see no voltage.

With the key on, engine not running, measuring at the positive coil post to ground you should see the same voltage as you see at the battery's positive post.

With the key on, engine not running, measure the coil negative post to ground. You should see either the same voltage as the positive post if the points are open, or no voltage if they are closed. Rotate the engine by hand to open and close the points to verify your reading.

Report back what you find.

[DL127]

Battery voltage across the posts is 12.58 volts. The wire to the points is landed on the - terminal on the coil as is the condenser wire. The + side of the coil has a black wire on it that disappears into the harness behind the starter generator. When the key switch is off I have .000 volts at the + coil terminal. With the key on engine not running I have 12.55 volts at the + coil terminal. Key on points open = 12.43 volts at - coil terminal. Key on points closed = .16 volts at - could terminal. I did 2 compression checks per the service manual. The 1st one electrically with the starter turning the engine over, with the compression release probably releasing I got 40 psi. The 2nd check I removed the pto guard and wrapped a cord around the pulley rotating the engine backwards like the service manual states. I got 90 psi. It was a difficult pull because of the small diameter of the pulley. The manual states 100 psi is the lowest acceptable reading. Maybe I need to pull the head and check for bad valves or worn rings/bore.

[DL127]

Also the spark plug is very black and sooty. It's only had 3/4 of a gallon of fuel through it since I last had the plug out and cleaned it.