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  #21  
Old 04-11-2012, 04:29 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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You've been busy! Thanks for the pics, Chris.
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  #22  
Old 04-11-2012, 04:54 PM
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Allen,
Your always there for us! Thanks for the continued support. I see you have a nice #2 cart. With all the cart talk I had to run down to the neighbors and see if the #1 cart was still there? Told the guys son to have his dad call me. I want that cleaned up for the show in July! What do you think my walk away price should be on a serviceable cart?

Back on the 4x4:
-I was able to get the front axle assembly/ weldment removed just before I ran out of oxygen. Ground down the welds flush to the frame.
- removed the foot rests and the cross shaft with the deck lift handle.
- Fixed the trunnion on the hyrdo, by welding on a small piece of steel to hold the springs over in correct location. and freed up the sticking linkage.
-Set the hydro on a rolling cart and tried the NF over the top of the rear facing hydro, along with the fender backwards over the front tires. Didnt look to good! Lots more thinking if this is going to work!

Back to the drawing board. Any one using Google sketch up for design work? Was thinking of laying the 4x4 parts out using it to see if I could "design" this rather than just cut and fit!

Regards,
Chris
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Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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  #23  
Old 04-12-2012, 08:48 AM
erjost erjost is offline
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I used google sketch up to draw my pivot point and lay out where the steering cylinder would go. It worked pretty good but its hard to draw a good representation of everything and it can take a long time.

On the hydro charge pump, I can't tell it affected anything. I drove mine around without the back transmission and it drove like any other cub. I had what felt like full speed. I have also read that the charge pump provides the oil for the ports which is my steering system and it functions exactly like I expected. Not too slow, not too fast. It takes 3 revolutions to go lock to lock. I don't think you'll have any issues there unless it causes unforeseen problems that I haven't noticed yet.
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  #24  
Old 04-12-2012, 10:32 AM
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ERJ,
Thanks for the info on the hydro trials with the diamond plate reversed. I will keep that in mind. Have you figured out how to syncronize your hydro issue yet?
Yes google sketchup is a little slow. Interesting you have used it too. I used to do design work for a living, now just for projects like this. I agree that the CAD work doesn't show you everything.
I was going to try to find information on the gear box system that Darryl Schmidt used. I may e-mail him. If I use his method I may not have to turn the diamond plate around.
I did some more whittling on the narrow frame from the 127 and actually got the front hydro just about in general position. (I think). I am having a lot of trouble keeping this at a 43 inch wheel base. I am currently at 52 inches!!
If you have some pictures that might help me???
I want to have full foot rests coming off the reversed front fenders. This moves the frame cut point back to right at the end of the tunnel on the 127 frame. I plan to do the seat hanging over the pivot point (moving with the front end.
Then to put the pivot point at or near the end of the foot rest it stretches the rear wheel base about 9 inches. Ideas / suggestions? I still am in the very very early stages of rough layout, so I can change about everything!
Thanks for the help! I will try to get some pictures, Need to run and get stuff today. Seem to be out of everything.
Regards,
Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey
www.mapleandhoney.com

Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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  #25  
Old 04-12-2012, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugarmaker View Post
Allen,
Your always there for us! Thanks for the continued support. I see you have a nice #2 cart. With all the cart talk I had to run down to the neighbors and see if the #1 cart was still there? Told the guys son to have his dad call me. I want that cleaned up for the show in July! What do you think my walk away price should be on a serviceable cart?

Back on the 4x4:
-I was able to get the front axle assembly/ weldment removed just before I ran out of oxygen. Ground down the welds flush to the frame.
- removed the foot rests and the cross shaft with the deck lift handle.
- Fixed the trunnion on the hyrdo, by welding on a small piece of steel to hold the springs over in correct location. and freed up the sticking linkage.
-Set the hydro on a rolling cart and tried the NF over the top of the rear facing hydro, along with the fender backwards over the front tires. Didnt look to good! Lots more thinking if this is going to work!

Back to the drawing board. Any one using Google sketch up for design work? Was thinking of laying the 4x4 parts out using it to see if I could "design" this rather than just cut and fit!

Regards,
Chris
Anytime Chris! On the cart, it depends on the condition, and what the owner wants for it. The #1 carts are rare. You could always make the seller an offer, and you might get lucky.
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  #26  
Old 04-12-2012, 01:43 PM
erjost erjost is offline
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Here are some pics of mine. Its hard to get the pictures like I want. I might try to get better ones later. I also put in some Sketch up drawings. I could give you the file but its too big so I'll have to find some other way to get it uploaded.

I have not got my control linkage done yet. I've been busy but I'm putting it on the priority list. I'm anxious to get this thing working and try out the 4WD. I have a plan and I'll probably start working on it tonight.

I am also having trouble fitting the foot rests in. I am going to have to cut them. You may want to extend your wheelbase. Its probably not as important to have 43" as it is to have good looking footrests. You'll just have to make sure it looks all right when you extend it. I think it would be easy to throw things out of proportion. I would definitely keep the pivot centered between the axles though.
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  #27  
Old 04-13-2012, 02:25 AM
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ER,
What can I say but, impressed! I love the CAD work. Really gives me some ideas on the structure required. Hope your new linkage design works to your satisfaction. Yea is the middle of the night. Couldnt sleep throat and ears are keeping me up. Thanks for posting these. I am sure I will refer to your work many times.
On the fenders, Yea I am all about the looks. Unfortunately sometimes to the point that can cloud my thinking. I do like your pivot in the center of the wheel base approach and will try to adopt that.
I picked up a fresh 125# oxygen bottle, some 4.5 inch cut off wheels, grinding wheels and several replacement face shields. Sparks may be flying tomorrow!
Cheryl is really going to be surprised with a Cub 4x4
Just remembered that I have front plow parts soaking in the de-rusting tank too.
ER ideas on porting one of these hydros? Looks like one port is high ( the left one) and the right is in line with the plug in the drill through hole? So the low one must be the flow out and the higher one must be the return port? Am I close?
I see you have a drive shaft going to the back too, May I ask what that is from or where you got it? I haven't done much research yet. But do need to be thinking about how to set the drive line up.
Regards,
Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey
www.mapleandhoney.com

Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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  #28  
Old 04-13-2012, 08:50 AM
erjost erjost is offline
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I'm not sure if you can drill holes to port a hydro. I know they have a relief valve for the ports on the ones that are ported, which makes me think they could have some extra internal plumbing. I really don't know much about how the ports work other than I have heard the charge pump provides the oil, and the relief valve is set at 500 PSI. I have also seen mention of some hydros that have the blanks but not the ports and you can drill and tap them but your supposed to put the relief valve in. There are instructions somewhere on the forum for doing it. If you can get a quiet line 1450 or 1650 rear end, they are all ported. I happen to run across 2 cheap 1650 parts tractors, so they worked great.

I did all my cutting with a cutoff wheel on the angle grinder. Its not a whole lot of cutting, and you always have to be careful not to cut too much off. I left it rough until I had my link ready to bolt in.

My dad has a cousin that is one of those guys the pickers would like to talk to, (except he wouldn't sell them anything). But dad was telling him about the project the day I was about to order U-joints. He walked over to a drawer and opened it and it was clear full of U-joints. He said they are too high to buy, look through here. So I found some. One had a square so I got a 3/4 key stock and had one end turned round to fit the other U-joint, and then I had a telescoping drive shaft. His other idea was to use a steering shaft out of a '70s truck. He said they had collapsible columns for safety during wrecks. Just break out the plastic holding them apart and use it. I also saw a guy use a snowblower drive shaft. Just some ideas/options I had.
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  #29  
Old 04-13-2012, 09:36 AM
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ER,
Great suggestions! Thanks!
I was eyeballing the short drive shaft on the snow thrower too
I also like the angle grinder and cut off wheel where possible does a nice clean job.
Might have to check out that 1450 I saw resting last summer.
Will do some research on the site for the porting you mentioned too.
Regards,
Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey
www.mapleandhoney.com

Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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  #30  
Old 04-13-2012, 04:19 PM
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ajcombs ajcombs is offline
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very cool looking projects get them made and sell me one

Just noticed and wondered does your joint allow for pivoting and twisting as it looks like it can't handle it if you were to say drive over an uneven yard?? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong??

Good luck and cant wait to see the out come of both of these!
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