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Official front end repair thread
Hello all.
This is going to be the thread where I post all the progress, work, thoughts and questions regarding the front end/steering repair on my 147. My goal is to get the machine working 100% or as close to 100% as I can mechanically before I cosmetically restore it. I asked for $$ for my birthday in october so I can work on the steering/front end etc but don't want to dig into it too much as it is my snow removal machine; I'll really tear into it this spring or summer. However, I figured I could do wheel bearings fairly easy. The old ones came out fairly easy. I found a lot of junk in the hubs, including old bearing material and some old balls. Even though there was some grease in the new ones, I packed them as well. A couple of the old ones were so loose they audibly jiggled when I shook them in my hand. I did find that there is play where the spindle meets the axle, as well as between the bearing and the spindle. Not a lot, but enough to be annoying. Can that be shimmed up somehow? What can a backyard mechanic do to eliminate the slop? Thanks PS not sure why the images are rotated incorrectly (?)
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#2
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Old tin cans work for shims. Aluminum beverage cans also work but won't stand the pressure that the steel will stand.
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Richard 1979 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20, dual hydraulics, power steering and Cat 0 three point |
#3
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Take the old spindle axle bolt out, ream it and put the appropriate size bolt in. I can’t remember off the top of my head what size it is but I’ve done at least a dozen this way and tightened the steering tremendously. Between that and the axle channel is the spots I see that cause the most steering play. Of the two tractors I’ve restored I’ve used McMaster Carr tie rod ends and rebuilt the steering gear and have tri tibs it’s like having power steering. Not too expensive or difficult to do either
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-Rick IH 782 IH 126 CCC 1863 |
#4
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Quote:
It is my understanding that there are not any bushings in the cast iron axle that I can replace that will eliminate steering knuckle slop. Or is this something that isn't as critical when rebuilding the steering? My thought is to make everything as 0" play as possible. I plan on doing the channel clamp and tie rod ends in the future.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#5
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The left side steering arm assembly is pinned to the steering knuckle shaft that comes up through the axle. That is often a point of play. Best way I've found to fix that is to drill it out and pin it with a larger pin to remove any play. Actually, I bought a taper drill and drilled it out to a taper and put in a tapered pin. I think it was a 5 or 6 taper? McMaster Carr has the taper drill and the pins.
You could drill it out to slightly more than 1/4 inch and make a new pin, but unless you go metric you likely won't find a 9/64 or 5/32 pin. Well maybe you can. Never tried. Or, drill out the top of the steering arm assembly and plug weld the dang thing to the knuckle. Of course, most steering play is in the gear box, so it's best to start there. New follower stud, easy steer bearing update, tighten up the gearbox cover bolt, etc.
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Not much in the way of repair as of late- it's been too cold and I don't have a heated garage/shop. Plus I've been using it for snow removal so I don't want to tear into it now anyway. In the interest of making it easier to remove the steering wheel come spring time, I've started soaking the shaft/nut with penetrating oil now and will probably hit it once a week or so until it does warm up. May as well; figured it won't hurt.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#7
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Acquiring of new parts continues. Knowing I'd need a different steering wheel (as the hub of the one installed is destroyed) I had a bit of a difficult time trying to find another one. I would have bought new, but new doesn't exist. I found one with a good hub, and good chrome on the splines, but at one point around the circumference it looked like a dog chewed it. I think someone had mounted one of those useless spinner knobs on it at one point so now I'm looking at finding a way to smooth it out or fill it in. (any suggestions?)
The seller also had the grille screen insert that my 147 was lacking that he threw in for a package deal. The screen that was in it when I bought it was simple and sturdy, but to the correct police (me) it was wrong. It's white- pretty sure it should be cadmium plated/colored- but that's just aesthetic. I also got the springs that hold it in.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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That looks much better with the correct grill!
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart |
#9
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Yes, you can shim the 3/4" axel spindle from behind the inner rim bearing, and the stop flange. My model 71 had shim on both spindles, and made for a noticeable amount of play in the rim sliding in and out, when I removed the shim to find out. I took the time to share what I done with my model 71 to fix much of the steering slop I had, you can take a look.
I like the wide frame front axles, as they incorporated removeable steel sleeves in the cast iron axel. Could be an idea for you if they were bad, or just find another axle.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#10
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I love spinner knobs, but mine are all workers. Just saying.
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