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#21
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twoton, I know the screen you are talking about from EricWww's post, but my
gas flow was good to the carb. I didn't want to brake something that didn't need fixing. One thing I found yesterday, when removing the batt. ground cable from the engine the cable fell out of the ring end. It could not have been making much of a connection. |
#22
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Good you found that. The importance of good grounds cannot be over emphasized.
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#23
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More comments on motor mounts, solid vs rubber ?
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#24
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I can sum it up easily,
some prefer solid mounts, others have tried them and went back to rubber. It is all personal preference, just like what you drive, drink, or sleep with. |
#25
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I am far from an expert on these things but,.. this is my understanding of the subject.
Gear drive Quietline tractors use a flexible 3 pin driver which is prone to fail. When people switch to a solid 3 or 6 pin driver, whether as a repair or when building a pulling tractor, they also switch to solid motor mounts. This helps to ensure proper clutch alignment, operation and reduces wear. There are no such issues with a hydro Quietline. Especially considering many have 14 and 16 HP engines, the rubber mounts are probably the best solution to help reduce the transmission of vibration from these larger power plants to the tractor frame and operator. |
#26
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I've put OEM iso mounts on all of my QLs. Even my 1000. I'd consider going to the solid mounts on the 1000 since it's the smaller engine, but the 1450s and the 1650 really benefit from the squishy mounts. IMO. The flex driver on my 1000 was in good shape, so it's working fine with the ISO mounts.
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#27
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Ok Thanks for the comments .
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#28
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When I get the mounts, is it easer to mount the cradle to the frame then drop the motor in or bolt the cradle to the motor then drop it in together ?
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#29
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I always bolt the engine cradle to the oil pan, and shoe-horn the assembly into the engine bay. There is not much room between the cradle and the frame to start the oil pan bolts. I'm on my 3rd tear down and put-back on my 1450 Quiet Line and this has worked every time. Just slip one lower mount under each corner, one at a time, then the uppers and go from there.
Sometimes, after a cradle modification, the cradle can warp at the flywheel ends, and make the cradle mating a read sucker even with the pan jig. That's one good improvement CCC done with the spread frame GT's. So, its all the better to know the cradle holes align to the oil pan holes, then install like I suggested. Looking forward to your thread, and to give me some inspiration to get my 1450 done, lol!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#30
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That's what I wanted to hear john. When welding the cross bar, I thought I had the side rails clamped down tight enough but the rear did tighten up about 1/8 inch. Oil pan holes still line up but very tight. I may have to enlarge one hole just a bit. Thanks.
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