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  #11  
Old 03-15-2018, 09:38 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by Overtorqued View Post
You would be surprised how little restriction it takes to cause a turbo to leak, when we build compound kits for the Cummins engines we use -4 AN feed and -12 AN drain lines and 45* MAX drain angle. I've had tons of customers come in with leaking turbos and either too small of a drain or a low spot in the drain. A very popular company is offering -10 drains for newer trucks that have been converted to the older manifold style and they're 6" too long, lots of turbos have been killed thanks to these custom drains. Another thing I noticed in the OP's pictures is the cartridge of the turbo isn't vertical, which I've noticed on all of the smart car turbo swaps I've seen so far. Some turbos are designed this way, but if the smart car engine is tilted and this is to compensate I see this being an issue also, which is why I'm on the fence about putting a smart turbo on my 1782, it looks like the cartridge is bolted solid to the turbine housing so it can't be clocked like most.

I'm not arguing that his turbo isn't bad, because it very well could be, just trying to help diagnose. If he bought one with a larger A/R turbine housing than others are using that would explain the lack of boost, or if the wastegate is stuck open. Typically when a turbo is leaking and not building boost its because something has jammed the compressor or turbine (the inertia created by spinning high RPM is what actually makes the sealing rings work, but he can hear the turbo whistling so this isn't the case.
I've been a diesel mechanic for about 20 years..... and I owned my own shop, (for 13 years) so I did more than just wrench for someone else. I don't really think anything would "surprise" me.

That said, I don't rebuild turbo's. I have a shop that does that. But that doesn't mean I don't know how they are assembled and work. I agree, I don't like the drain either.... and it may in fact be the source of the oil (although I don't think it is).... but it isn't the "no boost" issue. I know you also agree with that.
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  #12  
Old 03-15-2018, 10:33 PM
Overtorqued Overtorqued is offline
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I never see clogged drains on stock trucks, it's the do-it-yourselfer's installing aftermarket components that end up with an oily intercooler pipe. Actually it's very rare that we get a stock truck in the shop. Another thought I had, that mandrel bent tubing always has oil in the piping, maybe that's what OP's seeing?
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2018, 11:39 AM
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DieselDoctor DieselDoctor is offline
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I've got one of Mike's kits on my 782D. It's a great kit, very complete and Mike is good to deal with. The 782D will make about 6 pounds of boost pulling a loaded cart up the shallow grade on my property. There are no traces of oil in the air tubing. My drain line is routed similar to yours but by using careful routing I got it to slope downhill all the way to the fuel pump block-off plate where it drains into the sump. I would check the waste gate carefully to make sure it seals against the body of the turbo. The kit uses a spring to keep the "door" closed instead of the actuator that would be there in the normal application. Most likely there is something under the door allowing no boost. I'm sure Mike and the rest of us can help you thru this. The Kubotas are a great little engine and a lot of fun at the shows when they have a turbo on them.
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  #14  
Old 03-17-2018, 01:49 PM
1782Smoker 1782Smoker is offline
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Originally Posted by Overtorqued View Post
I never see clogged drains on stock trucks, it's the do-it-yourselfer's installing aftermarket components that end up with an oily intercooler pipe. Actually it's very rare that we get a stock truck in the shop. Another thought I had, that mandrel bent tubing always has oil in the piping, maybe that's what OP's seeing?

Thanks again for your response. Due to my work schedule I haven't had a chance to work on the tractor. I plan on working on it tomorrow. Lets assume the oil return line needs to be at a steeper decline and that is why the oil is getting into the charge pipe. Will the seals in the turbo need to be replaced now? Or if I correct the return line to have oil flowing probably will the turbo with begin to make boost?
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  #15  
Old 03-17-2018, 01:52 PM
1782Smoker 1782Smoker is offline
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Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
I've got one of Mike's kits on my 782D. It's a great kit, very complete and Mike is good to deal with. The 782D will make about 6 pounds of boost pulling a loaded cart up the shallow grade on my property. There are no traces of oil in the air tubing. My drain line is routed similar to yours but by using careful routing I got it to slope downhill all the way to the fuel pump block-off plate where it drains into the sump. I would check the waste gate carefully to make sure it seals against the body of the turbo. The kit uses a spring to keep the "door" closed instead of the actuator that would be there in the normal application. Most likely there is something under the door allowing no boost. I'm sure Mike and the rest of us can help you thru this. The Kubotas are a great little engine and a lot of fun at the shows when they have a turbo on them.
Thanks for your response. Did you leave the spring in the same position that it came when shipped? I plan on working on it tomorrow and with make sure it is seating up probably to the turbo.
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  #16  
Old 03-17-2018, 01:59 PM
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Yes the spring is as it was shipped from Mike.
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2018, 06:05 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Will the seals in the turbo need to be replaced now? Or if I correct the return line to have oil flowing probably will the turbo with begin to make boost?
Depends on how bad a leak. They may need replaced. I'd sure try again.

Once more, the drain isn't the boost issue. The oil leak isn't the boost issue, unless the turbine is bound and not spinning properly and also leaking oil. I've seen turbos puke oil but still boost.

As a note, I've bought several things from Mike. He's a good guy and easy to deal with. If the turbo was/is defective out of the box, I'm sure he will make it right.
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2018, 11:55 AM
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MikeMasheris MikeMasheris is offline
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What range is the boost gauge? You shouldn't use and more than a 15 psi. If you have a bigger one it is not as sensitive and doesn't move much. I use a 15 psi one and it makes 3 psi on the driveway full rpm and hit the hydro it will make more with a load on it. The oil is left over from shipping I primed the bearing so it would not start up dry. I would take the exhaust flange off and remove the spring on the waste gate and make sure it is closing all the way.
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