1864 CH18 engine woes

Rex B · #1 05-11-2020, 02:42 PM

My primary mower has been running on 1 cylinder since I ran over a big stick last time out. I finally got around to checking it out, and found a bent pushrod on the left cylinder. A quick call to the parts store said I can't get the pushrod except in a $42 kit, so I robbed one of my (still not running) 2084.
Now with the pushrod in I started it up, and that left cylinder is still dead. Looks like a bent valve. Sure 'nuff, no compression in that cylinder.

Now, can I pull the head without pulling the engine? The service manual only shows head removal as part of complete disassembly

ETA: This may be better suited to the Kohler Engine subforum. Admin, feel free to move.

Sam Mac · #2 05-11-2020, 05:33 PM

Pull the engine BTDT.

If you want the service manual I have it on the Facebook page Cub Cadet Cyclops in the files section

Rex B · #3 05-11-2020, 06:46 PM

Sam, I was hoping for a better answer. I just got done pulling the CH20 out of the 2084 to change the coils. Probably going to have to do that again.

I do have the service manual, thanks.

Rex B · #4 05-20-2020, 09:26 PM

OK, motor is out, tin is off, pressure washed the heck out of it. There was so much oily mulch it's a wonder the thing did not melt down. Probably the first time the fins have been cleaned.

So, I need a gasket and seal kit.
1 pushrod. Looks like I have to buy all the valvetrain parts as a kit. I wonder if there is a reason for that. The parts looked ok.
Anyone got a spare pushrod to sell?

Intake and exhaust valve. Both are probably bent

I'm going to change front and rear seals while it's out.
Filters of course.

What else should I replace?

Rex B · #5 05-20-2020, 09:58 PM

The service manual says the OE bolts are TTY, replace with new. Can you look at the bolts and tell if they are TTY?

I found no part number for those bolts. I would like to buy non-TTY replacements if possible.

Rex B · #6 01-23-2021, 05:54 PM

Finally getting back onto this one.
Looks like a need new head bolts. The bolts that came out have a reduced diameter shank, which I presume means they are Torque-to-yield bolts. I would prefer to replace them with conventional torque-till-they-break bolts

But I am not having much luck locally. I ordered a set of bolts from the loacal small engine shop. After waiting over 2 weeks I cancelled it. Tried the next place, and that guy had no idea what he was doing.

Maybe it was his first day. I left.

So as much as I want to support local small business, now I need to order online. Are there independent shops that advertise here that stock parts and can ship quickly? And maybe know what bolts I want?

guyina4x4 · #7 01-23-2021, 07:28 PM

I've changed a couple hundred ch18-20 head gaskets.
Never used new bolts. Never had any problems.
Your milage may vary.

guyina4x4 · #8 01-23-2021, 07:34 PM

Also if you've bent valve's most likely your guides have moved in the head. This happens when the head gets really hot from fins being caked with crap.
You might just want to pick up a used head that should come with push rods. I've picked them up off eBay for $50-$75.

CubDieselFan · #9 01-23-2021, 09:11 PM

I just replaced head gaskets on a CH-18 and I bought 2 Kohler OEM gasket kits. They say to reuse the bolts now. They use to come with replacement bolts but they say that they are not necessary. We will find out when I fire the engine up in the spring.

Rex B · #10 01-23-2021, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guyina4x4

Also if you've bent valve's most likely your guides have moved in the head. This happens when the head gets really hot from fins being caked with crap.
You might just want to pick up a used head that should come with push rods. I've picked them up off eBay for $50-$75.

Yessir, mine had a bent valve, a seat that had come adrift and been pound back in at an angle. Got a used head off ebay.

And yes, it had gotten real hot, the fins were plugged. Lesson learned.