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  #1  
Old 06-06-2019, 12:23 PM
gost530 gost530 is offline
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Default Model 71 Help Please

Need a little help please. 8 year old Grandson hit a fence post (dual wheels) and bent a rear axle. In addition clutch isn't working. I found a donor tractor to exchange trans. and rear end. Everything is ready to reinstall. Having trouble getting the clutch and driveshaft installed. Do I need to unbolt the engine and slide it forward?
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:29 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Yes, you need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine in place and move it forward an inch or two. Or, you can do it by splitting the tractor. Which, if you are exchanging rear ends, you will be doing.

Two of the engine bolts are above the front axle, so you need to jack up the front and let the axle pivot right and left to reach those bolts.

If it's just a bent axle, you can just change out the axle. Open the rear axle cover, pull the big C clip from the end of an axle, and pull it out. Do the same on your 71, then put the donor axle in. Change fluid and rear plate gasket, refill with Hytran or similar. Replace the rear axle housing bearing and seal on that side if you think they may have been damaged, cheap enough while you have the axle out.

Let's see some pics of your dually 71!
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:52 PM
gost530 gost530 is offline
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Default Thank you for the quick reply SawDust

Thanks for your help. Since the clutch wasn't working I decided to swap the entire rear end and trans. While out I wanted to repair the clutch. Problem is that with the rear end and tranny out I cannot get the clutch assembly back up in there. I even removed the clutch driver. Close but no cigar. At this point he may end up with a straight pipe as muffler is really rusty and about a half inch from the grill. Appears to me unbolt the engine and maybe cut the muffler off unless you guys can straighten me out.
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:46 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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I haven't actually done what you are attempting, most of my tractors are WF and QLs. (except for one 123, one 72)

Somebody else will be along to assist. I'm having trouble visualizing the problem. Replaced several drive shafts/clutches on WF and QLs though. I always moved the engine forward. Only need a couple inches. Removing the rear end provides the clearance as well, but a lot more involved.
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:19 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gost530 View Post
Problem is that with the rear end and tranny out I cannot get the clutch assembly back up in there. I even removed the clutch driver. Close but no cigar. At this point he may end up with a straight pipe as muffler is really rusty and about a half inch from the grill. Appears to me unbolt the engine and maybe cut the muffler off unless you guys can straighten me out.
Just remove the grill housing and there will be more room to move the engine forward.
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Old 06-09-2019, 10:20 PM
Livefreeordietryn2b Livefreeordietryn2b is offline
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The grill housing unbolts but take and cut muffler off leave enough to use some penatrating oil and a pipe wrench to get it off then it should come out.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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