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#41
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What Matt suggests - that of going in N right away and simply adjusting the cam down until the wheels stops - sounds like an easier way. Why start the process with the shift in F? Any advice on it? I started up my rebuilt engine for the first time today and noticed that, even though when pressing the brake pedal the shift goes to N, tractor creeps forward unless I have the shift lever slightly to the right of N (towards R). Assuming I need to adjust the cam bracket. |
#42
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Hey, three4rd,
Put the brake pedal down, which puts it in neutral, then let go of the pedal. Adjust the bracket until the wheels stop spinning. Then, go forward, reverse, with the speed lever, then hit the brake pedal again, and see if the wheels stop. Basically, just adjust until when you hit the brake, it goes into true neutral. Do not lock the brake pedal down, that applies the brakes and keeps the wheels from spinning (to some degree anyway). Glad the engine is running well. You are getting close to being done. You'll want to keep it once it's back up and running well. And just for grins, I had to replace a cork gasket a couple days ago on one of my 129s. Split it to do it. Used two floor jacks, one on the rear end, which I then turned straight up so the fluid didn't run out and one with a 2x4 across under the frame. I had just changed the fluid and filter, so didn't feel like draining it again.
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#43
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Thanks for that info! Great idea on the two jacks, 2x4, etc. to prevent hytran from running out. Being such a novice, I had a heck of a time with the transaxle on the jack (it was actually on there for like 2-3 months in all since we were on the now infamous Viking Sky journey in the middle of all the Cub work). The trans almost slipped off the jack several times - had me frequently worried that it'd completely slip off and damage the suction tube. I had a board wedged between the jack and bottom of the trans, and so probably didn't keep it jacked up high enough since it was likely always tilting too far front. And yet when I jacked it higher, the whole thing just seemed so unsecured and wobbly (didn't have the right-sized bungees to strap around it). Won't even talk about the trouble re-aligning the transaxle and frame holes - took aLOT of patience and maneuvering it back and forth till I got all 6 holes lined up. Glad someone wasn't paying me by the hour to do the cork gasket job for them They'd have not-so-politely refused once they got the bill.... I do plan on keeping the 129, at least as long as I'll be mowing paths in the woods across from our place. All last summer I kept them open with just my weedwacker, which is a rather weak substitute for a 42" deck, especially when trying to keep 3-4' wide paths open that are probably 100-200' ft. long each. So the rebuilt engine won't be babied for very long. Thanks for the encouragement along the way....going back to last summer, and probably before. |
#44
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If you turn the rear axle (once it's free from the frame) so the filter is pointing straight up, you can put the floor jack (or a couple blocks of wood) under the rear cover, a large flat spot, about 4 or 5 inches off the floor, and it holds the whole thing pretty steady. No risk to the suction tube, and no fluid leakage when you lift the hydro off the transaxle.
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#45
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Does sound like a good method. Will keep it in mind for the next time (if there is one) It was far past time to drain my fluid anyway.
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#46
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I thought so....guess not.....
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