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#1
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Need hotter spark plug for K241
Hi all, my 100 with K 241 engine burns oil pretty bad. for now to keep the plug from fouling, what's a hotter plug for this?
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#2
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A quick Google search will give you a answer.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#3
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Have you tried synthetic oil? I had a 107 smoker and that does not indicate that it was a diesel. I changed the oil out to synthetic and cut down the smoke substantially. That probably does not address your problem here, but it might make the ride a bit more tolerable.
Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. |
#4
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yeah well I was hoping to benefit from more experienced cub / kohler owners here. that must be my mistake. I have been doing thorough google searches, not quick one. Doing some not quick searching, I had found that K241 engines call for the Champion H10C I found an NGK equivalent of that plug (I dont like Champion) is NGK B6L using this site: https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/ Then I found this site which explains the plug numbers vs heat range. NGK is opposite from most, the lower the number the hotter the plug. https://www.sparkplugs.com/how-do-i-...%20the%20plug. So I think I may try a NGK B4L
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#5
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The hotter Champion plug would be an H12.
The NGK B4L is a replacement for that. http://media.builderwire.net/getdocu...Data_Sheet.pdf |
#6
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A experienced small engine builder friend of mine suggested using about 50% 90 weight gear oil instead of your normal engine oil. Also, it might be something as simple ( or difficult ) as replacing the oil ring on the piston. This is the ring with holes in it that drags oil up and down the cylinder wall. This ring will wear out before the cylinder wears out so unless the machine ran low on oil or had a lot of dirt in the oil , it might just require new rings.
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#7
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Quote:
This is a hardly used tractor, but when I need it I need it
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow! Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts. two spare hydro rears "in for a penny, in for a pound!" |
#8
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Thing is, if I was that far into it I would just do a complete rebuild. Time is the most valuable thing.
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#9
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Quote:
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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