IH 129 CC won't start

boxccc · #1 09-26-2020, 11:05 PM

I have been using this 129 Hydrostat for the past 5-7 years to mow heavy grass in and around a large 1.5 garden as well as lawn mowing nice flat groomed areas. Works beautifully and is one tough cookie with fully RPM for the mower deck and creeping with the hydrostat. Tractor given to me by close friend after loss of his wife and he downsized from 1.5 ac home site to apartment. I had done 2-3 large automotive repair projects for him. He took good care of it and I have tried likewise, oil changes etc.

Was about 2/3 done on lawn mow, dry etc and not too tall when engine suddenly conked out. I though it was out of gas, but it had 1/2 tank full. Turned over but would ignite. Choke in and or out. Oil dip stick OK. Thought maybe fouled spark plug, put in new plug. Air filter checked, ok. Nothing tangled under mower blades. Sprayed with ether, nothing. Towed back to poll barn, carefully with Hydrostat disengaged, wheels moved freely.

Exam noted debris in the sediment bowl and found small junk where gas tank emptied into bowl. I did a complete clean out of fuel line to and including the carb bowl as well as the carb with air and carb cleaner. Interesting I also had an inline filter between sed bowl and carb intake.

Tried to start, nothing. Even used battery charger at 12.5 amps assisting the year old good battery. Checked for spark, ok. Checked compression...about 40 to 50 psi. Checked the points (not sure how old) but no build up and gave it light emery abrasion. Plunger/points opened and closed with engine cranking. If I try to start with either she seems to ignite but barely and gives off white smoke at exhaust.

Has the timing been disrupted and how do i go about the trouble shoot diagnostics. I do not have manual to see if I can use "? white spot on the flywheel " with a timing .light with the older models.

Any and all suggestions short of getting rid of this classic "work horse" is greatly appreciated.

Billy-O · #2 09-27-2020, 10:22 AM

Here is a link from technical section to set your timing using gauges and timing light

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14

There are other ways to set timing:

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4405

You can static set timing with a test light, too! Watch for test light to go out when timing mark on flywheel aligns on the hole of the flywheel shroud on firing stroke.

Good luck!

finsruskw · #3 09-27-2020, 12:19 PM

I have always used carb cleaner and not either.
Something is amis somewhere.
Totally flooded comes to mind.
I agree with Billy.
find the s on the flywheel and static time it.
If all is good w/fuel, spark and squeeze it will run.
If fuel flow is what it should be I would suspect coil or condenser issues with the symptoms you list

mortten · #4 09-27-2020, 02:35 PM

Flywheel key sheared maybe?

darkminion_17 · #5 09-28-2020, 12:02 PM

Check the points again and see if the plastic on the point arm thingy is broken, or what finsy said....

boxccc · #6 09-29-2020, 02:34 AM

Gentlemen (repliers): I still need help and a great deal of patience from you'all:

1.The engine will not start so the timing light (which I have) can not be used.
2. The static test with an ohms meter as so graphically shown by M Gonitzke has me confused. It is very difficult to see the fly wheel mark through the shroud hole but I can see someone in the past has marked it with a white paint mark and I assume it is not the "T" for the TDC.
3. The point gap should be set to .020...?: as I rotate the flywheel the points contact is open (.020) until I see it close or contacts come together and I see the white mark on the flywheel. I have been told by others that the contacts should be always closed and only opened for the firing and that should be the recommended gap setting. In other words the current jumps the gap????:bigthink
4. "I get spark" by using a test light when the engine is turning over. Others have told me also that you must see a "blue " spark and not yellow or no to rely on the small test lights???
5. How can I tell if it the key way is broke from the shaft ? and how much of a dismantle is needed to confirm and repair.
6. Just because the compression test shows over 30 could a valve be stuck or a head gasket crack be the problem.

Wow...you can appreciate my dilemma

mortten · #7 09-29-2020, 10:30 AM

Can you get the plug to spark by pulling it and grounding it against the block? Engine would have to be pulled to check the key. Can’t really check the compression on a k series Kohler. It has a compression release. The .020 gap is a starting point. The gap may or may not change as the engine is timed.

boxccc · #8 10-01-2020, 10:40 PM

It is near impossible to see the Q or T marks on the flywheel thru the shroud opening. I did find one white paint mark that signified the points closing.

I then decided to find top d center so i took the head off and found the head gasket with a large hole in it as shown in the attachment picture.

The engine tab has been removed. Is this a Kohler K321 ? I have a 124, 127 and 129 all without the engine tabs removed. Are they all K 321s, since they all look alike.

I want to order a new head gasket, but not sure what engine I have.

thanks

ol'George · #9 10-01-2020, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boxccc

It is near impossible to see the Q or T marks on the flywheel thru the shroud opening. I did find one white paint mark that signified the points closing.

I then decided to find top d center so i took the head off and found the head gasket with a large hole in it as shown in the attachment picture.

The engine tab has been removed. Is this a Kohler K321 ? I have a 124, 127 and 129 all without the engine tabs removed. Are they all K 321s, since they all look alike.

I want to order a new head gasket, but not sure what engine I have.

thanks

Simply measure the bore and stroke, that will tell you the HP. and order the Hd. Gskt accordingly.
The spark occurs when the points just open, not close.
So adjust so the points do that, (approx .020 opening)

You also want to resurface the head.
Torque to spec, then warm to operating temp ( about 15-20 min) them retorque!!!!! or the new Gskt will be short lived.

boxccc · #10 10-02-2020, 04:06 AM

Thanks Ol'Geo, but I need your help more.
1.How is the bore and stroke measured? But I already know that my engines are 10 hp. How do i derive the Model number..such as ?K321A...since when ordering the head gasket they ask for model no and not stroke and bore.

2. As previously mentioned, my points stay opened the entire cycle of the stroke and only close just before TDC. You intimate they are closed the entire time and only open to have spark. I am really confused here.

sorry, If I appear confused...but I am a rank amateur..at 84yo I can barely walk and starting to stall when thinking

Geo Rocky down in Temperance, Mi.