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  #21  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:28 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaynjeep View Post
Good info! I'm about to embark on a P/S conversion on a 782... my donor valve was clean and dry but now I'm wondering if I should go thru it before I install it...
If it isn't leaking don't mess with it.
Be warned,
loosening the through bolts will usually disturb the O rings between the plates and cause it to leak, just the nature of the beast.
So when doing your conversion try to design the mounting bracket to use the
4 through-bolts in the position they are in.
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  #22  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
I don't think mine has any O rings but I don't remember either.

Attachment 91420
not on the outside, as you see those are flair fittings but on the inside of the plate there are 5 O rings, one for each fitting
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  #23  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
If it isn't leaking don't mess with it.
Be warned,
loosening the through bolts will usually disturb the O rings between the plates and cause it to leak, just the nature of the beast.
So when doing your conversion try to design the mounting bracket to use the
4 through-bolts in the position they are in.
I'll take that advice George! Thank you!
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:42 PM
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Diesel Doc was talking about a jam nut but maybe some are different.

Here is the under side of mine with the 5 O rings but I think the flared connections are welded into the cover or I'm I looking at it wrong?
DSCN0885.jpg
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  #25  
Old 03-11-2018, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by taylorjm View Post
Are they only on the in/out fittings? I replaced my steering cylinder and hoses and I could have sworn they were just flared fittings. But the other fittings may be the swivel 90's that you are talking about and have o-rings?
Some of the ross units use Seal-Lok / flat face fitting (ORFS) , Deere for one and I think, but not sure later klub kadets do also.
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  #26  
Old 03-11-2018, 08:05 PM
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Now while assy/dissy of the unit,
those 6 springs inside,--- (3 small and 3 larger) are called Jesus springs for a reason,---- as you will say "jesus" where did they fly to???
as they fly to unfound places in your shirt,under the bench, on the windshield wiper of your truck, in your hair.
Laugh if you like, but you will understand when it happens.
I have a set on hand just bacause.
FWIW usually the larger JD dealers have them in stock just for that reason.
Carefully disassemble it and be doubly careful on reassy.
3 of them are on top of the other 3.
And it is not unheard of to find someone previously put the sandwich together and a spring slipped and got crushed.
pay special attention to the valve plates as only one way is correct & clocked
And SCRIBE the plates on ther outside of the body before you dissassemble.
it is not difficult, just pay attention and follow the service manual.
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  #27  
Old 03-11-2018, 08:18 PM
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Yeah, my valve was different than what Oak has pictured. The bottom plate on mine was female threads and the JIC flare elbows screw into the plate. Some are taller than others for clearance. The lines to the fittings are flare. The fittings to the valve are a machine thread with o ring and jam nut. Wish I still had the tractor, I'd snap a pic. If your's is like the one Oak has pictured you're good to go!

Ol George is right make a nice deep scribe mark down the entire one side of the valve block before pulling the bolts. I took a die grinder and a cut off wheel then made a good mark I could see.
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  #28  
Old 03-11-2018, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
Yeah, my valve was different than what Oak has pictured. The bottom plate on mine was female threads and the JIC flare elbows screw into the plate. Some are taller than others for clearance. The lines to the fittings are flare. The fittings to the valve are a machine thread with o ring and jam nut. Wish I still had the tractor, I'd snap a pic. If your's is like the one Oak has pictured you're good to go! :bigthink

Ol George is right make a nice deep scribe mark down the entire one side of the valve block before pulling the bolts. I took a die grinder and a cut off wheel then made a good mark I could see.

Your valve has O-Ring BOSS fittings instead of the permanent jic male ends. I understand what your driving at.

I had planned to mark one side like some have mentioned.

Oak, what's your brand and address? If they change it I'll make good on your request
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  #29  
Old 03-12-2018, 01:00 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I'm thinking of buying the seal kit and some of the "jesus springs" to make sure I'll have everything I need. Unless I find that cheap plastic "bearing" in the tube needs replacing too. Now, the hard part will be removing the box. For my 2182 it says I need to remove the radiator, which I'm not really keen on if I can help it. I'll have to look and see how hard it's going to be with the radiator left in. I think I just need to get to that u-mounting bolt and the bolt holding the steering shaft on.
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:49 AM
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The way those springs are likely to want to fly out, try to prepare a LARGE clean area to do your rebuild. I've used an old sheet to cover an area when working on a hydraulic valve.
A couple of minutes of preparation will be time well spent!

I have a steering valve that needs repaired.......may get Jon to help with that!
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