New to me 124

[Cub Cadet 123]

Great score on a nicely equipped 124! Go down about half way on the page to find the 1x4/1x5 model wiring diagram, which should help you hooking up your light switch.

Go to the Resources section of the forum, Technical Library for Tractors and on page 5 you will find the Wiring Diagram for NF (Narrow Frames). About half way down the page, you will find the wiring schemata for a 1x4/1x5 tractor...….see if that helps!

Look at the weights carefully, they look like they should fit. Sometimes if they are very heavy they may be hard to hold in place. What I would do is jack up the cub, remove a rear wheel, lay it flat on the ground and then put a wheel weight inside to see if it will work and take measurements if necessary. I would think that some carriage bolts and washers should put you in business with them.

Any place that you want to get a sleeve hitch pin is your choice, should not be a problem. Jeff is a great fella to do business with, as is all of our sponsors.

Cub Cadet 123

[yingpin]

Thanks for the tips.

I was able to wire up the lights using the great diagram in the tech section so thank you for pointing that out. The bad news is one of my "new" lights was actually an old one that someone undoubtedly put in the box and returned.

I think I have a wire switched at the switch side because the one good light comes on regardless of the key position or the switch position. I am a rookie at wiring so I am sure I screwed it up but will take another look.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by yingpin

Been looking over the new tractor and takin inventory. It starts on a dime and runs great, PTO seems to engage nicely on the deck. I am going to try and fit the thrower first to see how it runs but at this rate in Maryland, It is unlikely I will need that or the blade but will probably run with the blade.
I need some pointers here.

1) One headlight was cracked and the light switch was froze. I got two new lights, and freed up the switch but no lights. Did find a wire that came of the voltage regulator and I noticed two loose wires at the switch that are no longer connected. The Wiring diagram I found does not show the switch config. Any help.

2) The wheel weights are heavy SOB's solid steel weights. They look home made and the holes are so close but do not line up exactly. What is the best way to enlarge the grooves on solid steel weights? I dont have a drill press but have a angle grinder with cutting wheel? I only have to make them slightly deeper and a bit wider.

3) Would like to install the sleeve hitch and it appears I am in need of the sleeve hitch lift pin. Best Source? Jeff in PA, Extreme Motor works, or...? I also need a bushing but I am assuming I can find one locally. What about the sleeve hitch bracket? I saw one on CL for $75.

I can make you a sleeve hitch adapter and the lift pin. My sleeve hitch adapter is heavy duty and haven't heard of anyone bending mine yet. My lift pin is drilled so it can have the lifting hole either vertical or horizontal.

Jeff

[Cub Cadet 123]

Originally Posted by yingpin

Thanks for the tips.

I was able to wire up the lights using the great diagram in the tech section so thank you for pointing that out. The bad news is one of my "new" lights was actually an old one that someone undoubtedly put in the box and returned.

I think I have a wire switched at the switch side because the one good light comes on regardless of the key position or the switch position. I am a rookie at wiring so I am sure I screwed it up but will take another look.

Keep in mind that with the older IH cubs, the lights can be turned regardless of the key position, but the plunger light switch (if you have an original one), should turn them on and off and not just leave them on all of the time. Perhaps your switch is bad? Make sure that you have a fuse in line for your lights, too!

Cub Cadet 123

[yingpin]

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

Keep in mind that with the older IH cubs, the lights can be turned regardless of the key position, but the plunger light switch (if you have an original one), should turn them on and off and not just leave them on all of the time. Perhaps your switch is bad? Make sure that you have a fuse in line for your lights, too!

Cub Cadet 123

Thank you. The plunger is not turning them off or on, they just stay on. Very likely this plunger/switch is not working. It is original as far as I can tell and was seized in the off position (pushed in, is off?).

It did not have a fuse inline from the switch to the amp gauge. I found one at the auto parts store when I was swapping bulbs. They only one they had was a 30amp.

****Just swapped out the old switch and replaced it while also adding an inline fuse. Everything is working perfectly now. I did realize that the left side light is missing the Headlight retaining ring. I wonder if this is why the bulb was cracked. I bet those are not easy to find.

OEM Part - Cub Cadet IH-389745-R1
Ring, Headlight Retaining

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by yingpin

Thank you. The plunger is not turning them off or on, they just stay on. Very likely this plunger/switch is not working. It is original as far as I can tell and was seized in the off position (pushed in, is off?).

It did not have a fuse inline from the switch to the amp gauge. I found one at the auto parts store when I was swapping bulbs. They only one they had was a 30amp.

****Just swapped out the old switch and replaced it while also adding an inline fuse. Everything is working perfectly now. I did realize that the left side light is missing the Headlight retaining ring. I wonder if this is why the bulb was cracked. I bet those are not easy to find.

OEM Part - Cub Cadet IH-389745-R1
Ring, Headlight Retaining

I make those rings

[Cub Cadet 123]

Save your old switch. Don't toss it! You might be surprised how many cubs I come across that are missing the screw on knob, so you might need it for "parts" sometime or clean it up, spray some PB Blaster on it and work it a little to free it up. I had one that was stuck (had been out in the weather for many years), I got it to move and it did not seem to work. Cleaned it up and freed it up, then thought well....might as well try it once more to see if that made a difference and it sure did. Never had a problem with it since 2009!


Cub Cadet 123

[yingpin]

Jeff, I will send you a PM.

I did save the old switch to see if I can get it cleaned up. The weights don't line up. They are about 1/4 too shallow (the slots) and the bolts wont go through. I am going to take an angle grinder to try and grind them down but its going to take a while since it is 2" thick.

We may be expecting some snow this weekend so I was hoping to get them figured out before then and then I will pull out the chains that came with it. I put the plow blade on tonight as well.

How do you guys determine when to use the blower vs. plow blade? I know the older throwers are not good for wet snow but lets say 3 inches of dry snow. Plow or Throw?

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by yingpin

Jeff, I will send you a PM.

I did save the old switch to see if I can get it cleaned up. The weights don't line up. They are about 1/4 too shallow (the slots) and the bolts wont go through. I am going to take an angle grinder to try and grind them down but its going to take a while since it is 2" thick.

We may be expecting some snow this weekend so I was hoping to get them figured out before then and then I will pull out the chains that came with it. I put the plow blade on tonight as well.

How do you guys determine when to use the blower vs. plow blade? I know the older throwers are not good for wet snow but lets say 3 inches of dry snow. Plow or Throw?

I prefer the QA-42 snow thrower on my 125 versus the blade. I have two tractors ( both 125's ) and don't even bother putting the blade on the other one except when I have to move dirt.

~~~~~~~~~~

Since the slots need to be deeper, could you use some 5/16 or 3/8 all thread to hold the weights in place since you have snow coming? That would distort easy enough to probably work.

[johncub7172]

I'd guess that your carriage bolts you'd want to mount the wheel weights to the rear rims would be 1/2" ? You might be able to drill that with a regular electric hand drill, starting with two smaller bits and finishing with the 1/2" bit. You'd only need two holes per weight.

Nice purchase, btw!