Identifying 3000 series tractor

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Analyte

Thank you for the help today!

The deck on the tractor is in very good shape, the extra deck was from another he parted along with the extra body parts in case he damaged something. The bigger setup is cool, but not sure I'll actually use it to be honest.

Now that I know what it is, I'll head over to see him again tomorrow to see about buying the mower and maintenance parts only. I figure if I can get it for $900-1000 I'll feel good about that deal. These mowers don't come up around here often so a good one won't last long...

Do you have a link on how to swap the SAM? I'm handy with a wrench, but if the tune up doesn't work I want to get an idea on what's involved to get it purring.

Thanks again!

The bagger setup is fine. People pay decent money for a nice complete one, especially on a 3k.

I believe the conversion kit is p/n 24 755 307-S and it should come with instructions, but it's pretty straightforward, but tedious. Gotta pull the engine, pull the blower housing, pull the coils, pull the flywheel and then put it all back together with the new parts. You don't need much other than standard hand tools (1/2", 9/16", 8mm, 10mm, I think 13mm...maybe 15mm), and maybe a feeler gauge for the coils if you're not comfortable using a business card to do it (I always use a feeler gauge). A torque wrench if you're fancy (I always try to be fancy). You could get it done in an afternoon pretty easy.

Originally Posted by Analyte

I forgot to add that he doesn't have the left tailights for it. It was pulled out and never replaced....but it's safe in a box with the other spare parts

Yup that's very very common. The material they used for the taillight housing wasn't very resistant to gasoline, and guess what's on that fender?

[CubDieselFan]

Is this in Lynchburg?

[Analyte]

Originally Posted by CubDieselFan

Is this in Lynchburg?

Yes, this is in Lynchburg

And I was wrong on the price when I checked back this evening, I've been looking at too many lately. He is asking $950 for everything which is much more reasonable, buy the mower and get all the other stuff thrown in.

We have agreed on a price and I pick it up on Friday. Very excited;

[Analyte]

Originally Posted by Gompers

The bagger setup is fine. People pay decent money for a nice complete one, especially on a 3k.

I believe the conversion kit is p/n 24 755 307-S and it should come with instructions, but it's pretty straightforward, but tedious. Gotta pull the engine, pull the blower housing, pull the coils, pull the flywheel and then put it all back together with the new parts. You don't need much other than standard hand tools (1/2", 9/16", 8mm, 10mm, I think 13mm...maybe 15mm), and maybe a feeler gauge for the coils if you're not comfortable using a business card to do it (I always use a feeler gauge). A torque wrench if you're fancy (I always try to be fancy). You could get it done in an afternoon pretty easy.

Thanks for the link. Since we have made a deal on it, I'm starting to make my list of stuff to order. That said, I'm going wait until I pick it up since he had a couple of boxes of parts to go with it so he may already have a module I could try first

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Analyte

Thanks for the link. Since we have made a deal on it, I'm starting to make my list of stuff to order. That said, I'm going wait until I pick it up since he had a couple of boxes of parts to go with it so he may already have a module I could try first

I wouldn't go replacing it just to replace it unless you already have the engine out, or you've ruled out everything but ignition. They aren't horrible to pull the engine out of, but it's a tedious process, especially getting those damn drive hub bolts out (well really back in is worse than getting them out) through the battery compartment.

If you need to replace a coil, though, you'll need to replace both of them as well as the flywheel since Kohler doesn't make those coils anymore, I wouldn't trust a used one, and the problem is just as likely the box as it is the coils.

Other things to keep an eye on: vacuum actuator for the PTO, worn plastic bushings in the pedal linkages (I generally replace them with oilite bearings), the left rear taillight (we already discussed), leaking gas tank bushings for the fuel pickup and for the low fuel sender (It's a horrible design - plan on replacing this every few years. Use some fuel resistant sealant on the bushing as well and let it set up before filling the tank all the way. That seems to help), breather tube cracking (Kohler had this issue for a while...there's an updated part with new material. I don't remember if it was an issue on that spec engine though), diff lock cable free movement/make sure it's not engaged all the time, and then the obvious leaking rear ends both from where the plate seals and the bearing blocks. I think that's the obvious bad things I've found on that design.

950 seems decently fair, tbh, with a low hour one that's mechanically sound. You should probably be able to get $200 - $300 out of the bagger alone if you're not going to use it.

Once you work the bugs out of them, they are really great machines. I don't think IH/MTD made a better mower, in the Lawn/Garden Tractor format at least, before or since.

[Analyte]

Thanks again for the help and advice. Definitely copy on the bushings, they work good as is but I can feel a little slop in them. Might as well swap them before next mowing season.

I'll read up on the vacuum actuator since I'm not familiar with it. My 3204 PTO switch has always worked so I haven't messed with it yet. I'm guessing the actuators are the same on the 3225 and 3204 which will help.

After thinking about it some more I really believe/hope the sputtering at speed and load is fuel pump. It's starts great, idles great, and speeds up nice. Only when at high rpm does it sputtering which seems like it's running out of fuel. When I lowered the throttle speed it would clear up and idle/drive fine again. He has a spare fuel pump so I may start there after checking the condition of the plugs.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Analyte

Thanks again for the help and advice. Definitely copy on the bushings, they work good as is but I can feel a little slop in them. Might as well swap them before next mowing season.

You'll need to drill out some holes, and I also usually modify the bushings a bit to fit. Once you do, though, all the slop goes away and it's great.

Originally Posted by Analyte

I'll read up on the vacuum actuator since I'm not familiar with it. My 3204 PTO switch has always worked so I haven't messed with it yet. I'm guessing the actuators are the same on the 3225 and 3204 which will help.

There are (at least) two different actuator types. One on the early and one on the later ones. The vacuum "solenoid" is on the firewall on the later ones and on the actuator on the older ones. Generally these things work until they don't. They are a somewhat common failure on these machines.

Originally Posted by Analyte

After thinking about it some more I really believe/hope the sputtering at speed and load is fuel pump. It's starts great, idles great, and speeds up nice. Only when at high rpm does it sputtering which seems like it's running out of fuel. When I lowered the throttle speed it would clear up and idle/drive fine again. He has a spare fuel pump so I may start there after checking the condition of the plugs.

Could well be, and that's a super easy fix. It could probably stand to have the carb cleaned too, and a new fuel filter and fuel lines installed. Those 30 year old ones that have had ethanol in them for the last 20+ are probably fairly brittle at this point.

[Analyte]

Good point on the fuel lines/filter and carb clean. At that point, I should just pull the tank and flush it as well just in case there is any trash in it.

[Ken41]

Originally Posted by Analyte

Good point on the fuel lines/filter and carb clean. At that point, I should just pull the tank and flush it as well just in case there is any trash in it.

And get new rubber grommets for the fuel pick up tube and low fuel sensor were they go into the gas tank. I hear they go bad quite often, mine were.

[Analyte]

Originally Posted by Ken41

And get new rubber grommets for the fuel pick up tube and low fuel sensor were they go into the gas tank. I hear they go bad quite often, mine were.

Got it, thank you!