Identifying 3000 series tractor

[Analyte]

Hello,
I've enjoyed my 3204 so much that when I saw a 3225 local I figured it was worth checking out. It's not in bad shape for the age, nothing a little elbow grease and paint will fix.

After looking at it, I'm questioning if it is indeed a 3225 or not. It has a Command 18 cover on it, but we all know the 3225 should be a 22 hp. It does have the diff lock so it's not a 3186.

It does have dual disc brakes so it's an early 3000 series, but the engine tag seems to show it as a CH25. I didn't find a frame tag on the right front rail so I'm questioning it.

Is anyone able to tell anything from these tags? They have wore off a bit, but I was able to see the CH25 when blow up.

[Gompers]

Does it have a ignition module on a box on the outside of the engine?

Very early ones would have had the SAM as they were small bore (77mm) CH22s. They got the big bore CH22 in like 2000 I think.

That could have been replaced with a non-SAM engine so that's not a given either.

Dual rear brakes would make it a 98 model. The single rear brake AL rear came out in 99 and cast iron in 01.

Engine has likely been replaced. The cover on the carb means nothing. The crankcases are all pretty similar and I'm not sure what minor little things will tell you the difference between the engines aside from the bore (77 for CH18-22, 80 for CH22 and CH23, and 83 for the CH25 and up).

[Analyte]

Another pic

[Analyte]

Originally Posted by Gompers

Does it have a ignition module on a box on the outside of the engine?

Very early ones would have had the SAM as they were small bore (77mm) CH22s. They got the big bore CH22 in like 2000 I think.

That could have been replaced with a non-SAM engine so that's not a given either.

Dual rear brakes would make it a 98 model. The single rear brake AL rear came out in 99 and cast iron in 01.

Engine has likely been replaced. The cover on the carb means nothing. The crankcases are all pretty similar and I'm not sure what minor little things will tell you the difference between the engines aside from the bore (77 for CH18-22, 80 for CH22 and CH23, and 83 for the CH25 and up).

Does the additional pic of the side of the engine help you identify the ignition box style?

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Analyte

Does the additional pic of the side of the engine help you identify the ignition box style?

Photo is so small it's impossible to see. I think the ignition box is on the other side as well.

Regardless, if it's got diff lock and it's a 98, it's either a 3225 or a 3205, which was a liquid cooled Kawasaki. It's unlikely it was swapped with a CH. I'd say it's very very likely it started life as a 3225.

As for what the engine is, who knows. The only difference between the CH18 and CH20 is a carb limit screw. The only difference between the CH20 and 77mm CH22 is the SAM system. Later CH22s and CH23s are both 80mm bore and the only difference is the flywheel (timing).

I'd highly doubt it's a CH25 swap, but that's possible.

[Analyte]

Ok, it's definitely a 3225. Based on your feedback on brakes, diff lock, etc. it all makes more sense.

I did get the pictures on my PC where I could edit them plus increase the size so I was able to make out the serial number for the engine. It is a CH22 based on Kohler's website search. So not sure why the model number looks like 25, but nonetheless that is a misread.

[Analyte]

The rear axle inspection plate has been pulled so the diff bolts have been checked, and it doesn't appear to be leaking.

It does need the nylon bushing swapped for brass which is normal, but the forward/rear speeds are spot on. The engine starts great, but it seems to need a tune up and that new fuel pump since at wide open it wants to sputter a bit when on the move. It's showing 472 hours and everything seems to work except the headlights.

It comes with a Triple bagger, 190-367-100, that is in great shape and complete. On it is a 54 inch deck, model 290, plus there is a spare 54 deck included with it.

Other spare parts include two side panels, grill, hood, foot pan, and rear fender. There is also things like extra filter, spark plugs, new fuel pump in box, etc.

I'm OK at pricing the 3225 mower itself now that it's confirmed, but what are all the extra parts worth? He did say he was negotiable, and he's asking $1500 for everything.

Thanks

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by Analyte

The rear axle inspection plate has been pulled so the diff bolts have been checked, and it doesn't appear to be leaking.

It does need the nylon bushing swapped for brass which is normal, but the forward/rear speeds are spot on. The engine starts great, but it seems to need a tune up and that new fuel pump since at wide open it wants to sputter a bit when on the move. It's showing 472 hours and everything seems to work except the headlights.

It comes with a Triple bagger, 190-367-100, that is in great shape and complete. On it is a 54 inch deck, model 290, plus there is a spare 54 deck included with it.

Other spare parts include two side panels, grill, hood, foot pan, and rear fender. There is also things like extra filter, spark plugs, new fuel pump in box, etc.

I'm OK at pricing the 3225 mower itself now that it's confirmed, but what are all the extra parts worth? He did say he was negotiable, and he's asking $1500 for everything.

Thanks

Diff bolts being loose isn't a problem on those. Only really an issue on the early CI rears where they failed to use thread locker. The leaking is the big thing on those. If the rear end isn't leaking, and the diff lock works, that's like 90% of the problems they generally have.

I'd price in a SAM removal kit in the back of your head, since that's the most problematic thing about those engines. It's a flywheel and coil swap. Once that's done things should be pretty reliable. I wouldn't be surprised if that's part of the source of your sputtering problem.

As far as extra parts go, I wouldn't pay much extra for them TBH. While they CAN sell for a few hundred bucks like on a part out, how much they are actually worth to you isn't probably a whole lot, especially if the deck it has in decent shape. 3000 series cosmetic parts (aside from the left rear taillight) are pretty easy to come by, and the deck is nice, but it's not like you actually need it if what's on there is nice. I wouldn't give more than 100-200 more for the bits and bobs, and that's mostly for the deck.

TBH that seems a bit high, but that's a nice low hours unit and there aren't too terribly many of those around. If the left rear taillight is still there I'd consider that a huge win I love my 3225 (which has a CH23 in it) that I got with a 3 point, snowthrower and roached 54" deck for $600, but that was a smoking deal.

[Analyte]

Thank you for the help today!

The deck on the tractor is in very good shape, the extra deck was from another he parted along with the extra body parts in case he damaged something. The bigger setup is cool, but not sure I'll actually use it to be honest.

Now that I know what it is, I'll head over to see him again tomorrow to see about buying the mower and maintenance parts only. I figure if I can get it for $900-1000 I'll feel good about that deal. These mowers don't come up around here often so a good one won't last long...

Do you have a link on how to swap the SAM? I'm handy with a wrench, but if the tune up doesn't work I want to get an idea on what's involved to get it purring.

Thanks again!

[Analyte]

I forgot to add that he doesn't have the left tailights for it. It was pulled out and never replaced....but it's safe in a box with the other spare parts