1864 Electrical problems

RichJordan · #1 09-24-2020, 06:55 AM

Hi Folks, I have an 1864 that I only use in the fall to vacuum leaves with. I replaced the starter year before last, and have only ran it about 10 hours total since then. It has been parked in the shed since then. So I have done all of the normal things to get it running again, charge the battery (replaced in fall of 2018) filled up with clean fuel, aired the tires etc. Now comes the difficult part to explain. I don't have any power at all to the starter (no clicks when turning the key). So, I replaced the ignition switch with a new one from the Case IH dealer and now the PTO light is on as well as the Oil light I believe and the hour meter clicks as soon as I connect the + pos cable with the switch in the off position. I can cross the solenoid and get it to start, so what could be causing the hour meter to be energized by just hooking up the battery? Also can someone send me the link for the starter relay instructions? Thanks in advance, Rich

R Bedell · #2 09-24-2020, 07:30 AM

First, Welcome to OCC.........

BEFORE..........I would shot gun this tractor with any more parts. I would check the Battery Cables, both positive & negative. Make sure that each cable on each end, is clean, bright, and tight.

IF the PTO light is on, it indicates the PTO Switch is in the "on" position. Turn it off, in that it needs to be in the off position for the starter to work.

IF....all the electrical is original, and in proper working order, in order for the starter to work, these things have to be done:
* PTO in off position
* Someone in the Seat
* Brake Pedal Depressed

Billy-O · #3 09-24-2020, 07:44 AM

There is a wiring diagram available online: https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/c...ing-schematics

Just scroll down and pick your model and review. Make sure New switch matches up the old one. There is a legend that basically details the switch operation.

At a quick glance in looking at wiring diagram, there is a fuse to check....something that you could have done before replacing the switch. Also, What Roland suggested is a good one!

RichJordan · #4 09-24-2020, 02:45 PM

I should have mentioned in the original post that I have done everything that I can think of to (clean up) and tighten up with regard to the wiring. Battery is hot, cleaned all of the electrical connections. It did have a mouse nest in the flywheel shroud so I cleaned that out. I am trying to find a relay kit for the starter, but what is making the hour meter circuit open is what is baffling me.
I am new to this forum, but I worked in a small engine shop for a couple of years. How I missed knowing about the cyclops and their starting problems is beyond me??? Even when mine was working good I did have to turn the key about 4 or 5 times.

Sam Mac · #5 09-24-2020, 07:32 PM

Plan on adding a relay. The CH Kohlers are notorious for the click, click no start.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...starting+relay

Cubcadet_107 · #6 09-24-2020, 08:18 PM

Our 1863 likes to do the same "click click", sometimes it won't start right away. It's kinda strange, but once you get it started its fine. Should also mention that they seem to have a safety switch that prevents the tractor from starting if the hydro is in the free rolling position. I tried starting it, forgot I had the release on, and it refused to do anything. Didn't even "click". Once I realized it was released, I put it back to drive mode and it started right up. I recommend checking that, maybe its contributing to the issue.

Sam Mac · #7 09-25-2020, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

Our 1863 likes to do the same "click click", sometimes it won't start right away. It's kinda strange, but once you get it started its fine. Should also mention that they seem to have a safety switch that prevents the tractor from starting if the hydro is in the free rolling position. I tried starting it, forgot I had the release on, and it refused to do anything. Didn't even "click". Once I realized it was released, I put it back to drive mode and it started right up. I recommend checking that, maybe its contributing to the issue.

1863 does not have a safety switch for the hydro release. The 1864 has the Sundstrand pump and the 1863 has the Hydrogear pump so no release knob on the 1864. This is the 1863 wiring diagram if you doubt what I'm saying about no safety switch on the hydro release.

Cubcadet_107 · #8 09-25-2020, 07:57 AM

Interesting... I guess I wouldn't entirely know anyways... I can (and have) rewired a narrow frame tractor no problem, but haven't needed to mess with the 1863 much. I prefer not to mess with the newer tractor electrical systems because they tend to be a bit more complex.

Frank1541 · #9 09-25-2020, 08:35 AM

The simple answer would be that they gave you the wrong key switch. This may be all or part of the problem. All the circuits, except the solenoid draw power through the key switch. Pull the switch and check for continuity between the B and R terminals. There should be infinite resistance when the key is off. Check the corresponding plugs on the connector as well. There should be infinite resistance between these.

I would take a look at all the wiring. I had a lot of wires on my 1541 where the insulation cracked and fell off if I moved the wires. Also, some of the copper was pretty brittle after 25 years of use.

RichJordan · #10 09-27-2020, 10:52 AM

Thanks for all that replied, I believe I have found the culprit, the pesky brake safety switch was bad.