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#2
04-16-2019, 08:41 AM
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be interesting as I have the same engine and a 14hp version here.... mine are both the typical "wide base" block, not the Cub narrow base. never seen a narrow base Magnum.
mag ignition and gear starter, minor wiring change needed vs battery/ points ignition, that's least of worries. 
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#4
04-16-2019, 08:47 AM
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It's doable, as long as you have the right style oil pan, and right style flywheel for the drive shaft hub. If it's an engine from a Cub you should be fine there. You need to do a relay for the ignition since you're going from points ignition to magneto, so instead of applying power to the coil to run the engine, you need to ground the magneto to stop the engine. Do NOT apply power to the magneto or you'll fry it. You're also going from starter generator/giant voltage regulator to alternator under the flywheel and regulator on the side of the engine shroud. You'll just need to account for some wiring changes and everything else should transfer over. Oh, and the PTO will be a electronic clutch instead of manual.
Unless you want to get real exotic and put a manual clutch and starter generator on the mag...
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#5
04-16-2019, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#6
04-16-2019, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
I did rebuild the M12 that I have, it had both sets of holes (and threaded) for wide or narrow pan.... if I could put the narrow pan on it, wonder if the wide base flange would interfere with anything? That flange would be stood off of the tractor frame, wonder it would be enough of a standoff to make it work? I have another tractor here that I stripped for parts because it came to me w/o an engine, and here lately narrow base Kohlers have been scarce in my area... I still have enough parts to reassemble that tractor at the moment. and if one of these would fit, it would also solve my problem of not having an extra CCW rotation starter generator as the 1X9s took.... don't wanna take over the OP's post but hoping this helps them out too...…
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#7
04-16-2019, 09:05 AM
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This is not mine, it's a webfind... I'm not at home to take pictures of my engine. This is a straight narrow base engine, not a wide base block with narrow base pan. I am thinking about doing a similar swap by dropping my M12AQS into a 1250. Only I wouldn't be replacing a starter generator engine.
100_1506.jpg 100_1562.jpg 100_1563.jpg
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#8
04-16-2019, 11:33 AM
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Thanks for the reply's guy's . Have a 109 that need's an engine , and a friend offered this Magnum 12 S , which is in a Wheel Horse 312-A ,which is supposed to run good , so thought I would see what the chance of it fitting was . Probably should have put this info in my first post / question . I think I will take it anyways , even if doesn't work in the Cub .
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#9
04-16-2019, 01:35 PM
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Pretty sure that's going to be a wide base engine, it won't fit.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#10
04-16-2019, 02:19 PM
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As for the relay I have also clipped the power wire to the coil coming off of the ignition and used a toggle switch that one side of is grounded, and the kill switch wire from the Magnum to the other side of the toggle switch. Makes for a 2 step operation to start or kill the engine, but minor deal.
I have also swapped out the ignition switch for one meant for a magneto and run the (former) power wire to the M terminal on the coil // instead of the+terminal on the old engine's coil There's ways around you wiring differences, not hard
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