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  #21  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:57 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Next came the steering column. Gross! The foam seal is completely gone (which I figured) and I opted to paint the column while I had it out even though I'm not restoring cosmetically at this point.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg steering box out.jpg (31.2 KB, 203 views)
File Type: jpg steering box gross.jpg (22.0 KB, 204 views)
File Type: jpg steering box cleaned up some.jpg (23.4 KB, 204 views)
File Type: jpg steering box grease.jpg (22.1 KB, 205 views)
File Type: jpg steering box cleaned.jpg (30.0 KB, 204 views)
File Type: jpg steering column cleaned up better.jpg (32.6 KB, 202 views)
File Type: jpg pulled adjusting plug.jpg (31.5 KB, 204 views)
File Type: jpg foam seal is gone.jpg (18.8 KB, 200 views)
File Type: jpg painted steering column.jpg (34.1 KB, 204 views)
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #22  
Old 04-16-2019, 09:00 PM
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I tried tightening up the channel that the axle sits in but it didn't make any difference...apart from pulling the axle pin and putting a grade 8 bolt in, what else can I do?

Thanks
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #23  
Old 04-16-2019, 09:01 PM
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clay1811/44c clay1811/44c is offline
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Keep up the good work. Glad to see you have a helper.
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  #24  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:15 PM
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My 126 has a lot of play and most of it is front channel play. Interested to see how you do this.
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'71 IHCC 126 - sleeve hitch+assist, 42" deck
'87 CC 1872 and 1811 - Haban, 44C
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  #25  
Old 04-17-2019, 12:41 AM
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I use a long 5/8ths bolt with a few big washers, and a good nut and squeezed the channel together. My experience is that the narrow frame are the easiest to squeeze. Then it’s a rascal to get the axel back in if you over squeeze. But that channel will stay put and the axel won’t move back and forth. Any and all steering play you can remove will impress you when you notice how much better you done with your tractor. I reused my old pivot pin since it was still in decent shape and even the old coil keeper pin went right back and stayed.
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  #26  
Old 04-17-2019, 06:02 AM
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Do I have to pull the engine again to do that? Is it easier to do with the axle removed? Never pulled the pin...how's that work?

Thanks
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #27  
Old 04-17-2019, 08:56 AM
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It would have been easier, but you can still do it.
There is a spirol pin up front that holds it in. Hopefully it has been greased so it will come out easy.
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  #28  
Old 04-17-2019, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drglinski View Post
Yesterday I did some wrenching on the tin. I pulled the motor with the aid of my brother's engine hoist (because he's got it so why not use it). The engine didn't come out too bad- the front motor bolts are in a really dumb spot but I got em out (and back in.) Even my little girl got in on the action- she's shoving a wrench into the flywheel opening. The worst part was trying to get the four phillips screws out of the screen. Lots of heat and they finally broke free. Everything went back together with anti-seize for when I rebuild the motor (next project) it'll come apart better-hopefully.


I like the location of the coil mount much better now. It's no longer tucked up against the sediment bowl with the spark plug wire in a weird location.
Enjoy the little ones while they are young, all too soon they are grown up and have their own families.
She just might turn out to be a "Delta cub"---- not a bad thing
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  #29  
Old 04-17-2019, 08:33 PM
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Did some mulling over it today, and as much as I'd like to just keep plugging on (and didn't want to pull the engine again) I didn't want to work on the axle but decided if I'm doing it I should do it right. I removed the bolts on the engine and lifted it up slightly allowing me access to work on the pivot bolt.

I followed the specs by this thread: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=18991 and chose a bolt that matched it (Local hardware store didn't have a fine grade bolt this size grade 8 so I went with coarse) I picked up some GUNK and tried it out on the front axle (it worked great!) Mocked it up in the frame and it eliminated ALL of the sideways slop. I have to cut down the head of the bolt so it clears the oil pan better, but so far, I like what I see.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg axle out.jpg (27.0 KB, 167 views)
File Type: jpg axle out front of cadet.jpg (32.7 KB, 166 views)
File Type: jpg new axle bolt.jpg (21.1 KB, 167 views)
File Type: jpg degunking axle.jpg (41.3 KB, 168 views)
File Type: jpg axle installed in tractor.jpg (34.4 KB, 168 views)
File Type: jpg front of bolt.jpg (16.6 KB, 168 views)
File Type: jpg axle bolt oil pan.jpg (24.7 KB, 167 views)
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #30  
Old 04-18-2019, 12:17 PM
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MikeMasheris MikeMasheris is offline
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Be careful on the front nut end if its sticks out too far it can get in the way of the mule drive socket if you have one with a pin all the way across it.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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