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  #31  
Old 04-18-2019, 08:44 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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More progress today...ground the head of the axle bolt down to clear the oil pan. Then cut down the nut some to clear the mule drive which is essential for cutting grass. It removed ALL of the axle play. I plan on keeping the OEM pin in case of the bolt not working or if I need to change it back for some reason.

I found the guide pin for the box was flat spotted/worn. I have a new one. I spent time cleaning up the old parts that I need to retain, and assembling the new ones for ease of location when I want to dive into the box. I also installed the two tie rod ends but didn't adjust them just yet.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bolt 1.jpg (15.8 KB, 198 views)
File Type: jpg axle bolt 2.jpg (24.2 KB, 200 views)
File Type: jpg axle installed 3.jpg (28.5 KB, 198 views)
File Type: jpg flat spot 4.jpg (17.0 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg parts 5.jpg (22.5 KB, 199 views)
File Type: jpg pivot 6.jpg (17.9 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg tie rod 7.jpg (29.9 KB, 197 views)
File Type: jpg tie rod 8.jpg (28.9 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg parts 9.jpg (27.4 KB, 197 views)
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Daniel G.




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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #32  
Old 04-19-2019, 08:44 PM
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Dove in and rebuilt the box today. New ball bearings (in the old retainers) and a new cam follower because the old one was worn. I opted to go with a thrust bearing in place of the jam nut, and a ball bearing in the top of the column in place of the plastic bushing.

I worked on setting the toe, centering the steering and obtaining the proper drag link length. My supervisor even got in on the action keeping me on my toes with tool relocation. I took it for a quick ride today and can't believe how much of a difference it made. No constant steering to go in a straight line. The bearing upgrades make the front end want to turn. It makes a super small circle now. It's hard for me to believe that I put up with the lousy sloppy steering for so long and didn't just repair it. I have to thank Merkle for his support; I leaned on him quite a bit for technical questions and advice for the process. I didn't button down the steering wheel just yet; I plan on doing that tomorrow. I have a few minor details to iron out but it's almost done.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new bearings retainers 1.jpg (18.4 KB, 173 views)
File Type: jpg grease on steering gear 2.jpg (25.3 KB, 176 views)
File Type: jpg steering box 3.jpg (25.2 KB, 174 views)
File Type: jpg foam seal 4.jpg (18.7 KB, 174 views)
File Type: jpg thrust bearing 5.jpg (23.2 KB, 171 views)
File Type: jpg top bearing 6.jpg (23.0 KB, 175 views)
File Type: jpg pitman arm installed 7.jpg (29.9 KB, 178 views)
File Type: jpg thrust nut installed 8.jpg (22.1 KB, 174 views)
File Type: jpg steering column installed 9.jpg (25.5 KB, 174 views)
File Type: jpg sophie 10.jpg (28.9 KB, 175 views)
File Type: jpg parked for the night 12.jpg (30.2 KB, 177 views)
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #33  
Old 04-19-2019, 09:46 PM
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IHCubCadet147 IHCubCadet147 is offline
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Nice work! My 147 is in need of the same repairs.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub
38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2019, 08:06 PM
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After 7 hours of rain, I was able to get back at it today. I wanted to take it for another drive so I could ensure I'd get the steering wheel centered where I wanted it before I put the nut on and tightened it up. Got it where I wanted it and I really like looking down at that IH logo in the center.

I was messing around with it some more and realized the pitman arm wasn't tight enough. Simple enough; tighten up the jam nut. Doing this knocked the cam follower out of adjustment (the steering would bind in the center) so I had to unbolt the box from the tractor (removing the bottom tin piece first) swing it over some and adjust the follower. Fortunately it adjusted while still in the tractor and I didn't have to completely remove it.

Took it for a few more tests run and I'm completely thrilled with how it drives. I should have done this years ago. Now I've got to throw the mower deck under it and start cutting grass! If it ever stops raining and the grass starts growing........................................... ....................
Attached Images
File Type: jpg steering cap.jpg (28.7 KB, 162 views)
File Type: jpg overview inside.jpg (28.2 KB, 161 views)
File Type: jpg outside right side.jpg (30.1 KB, 163 views)
File Type: jpg outside left side.jpg (28.1 KB, 162 views)
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Daniel G.




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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #35  
Old 04-20-2019, 08:24 PM
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I like the way you tackle the job at hand, the front end came out as I expected, now about that fender...
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  #36  
Old 04-20-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I like the way you tackle the job at hand, the front end came out as I expected, now about that fender...

Haha, yep. Plan is to get a better hood (corners are hacked on this one) and a new fender pan. I want to restore it cosmetically at one point but I want it 100% mechanical before then. Nothing annoys me more on a 'restoration' than a good looking tractor that won't run, smokes, leaks, worn steering, etc.

The next project is going to be an engine rebuild. This one is a 60/40 motor; 60% gas 40% oil.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #37  
Old 04-22-2019, 08:39 PM
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Today was the day to mount the mower deck. I removed the 10-30 oil (for ease of winter starting) to go to straight 30W. (5 bucks a quart for that ) After I got the subframe/mule drive installed, it had a hard time raising, then the steering bound REALLY BAD when I tried to steer it. The tie rod was dragging the subframe. Made no sense to me..I compared an old tie rod end to a new one (same size) and realized my mistake. I had made a classic ID10T error. The tie rod was on upside down. I flipped 'er over and viola it steers better and the subframe traverses the full length.

I drove it around and did some mowing with it- it steers way better than ever before. Way easier and sharper. I did notice that when it sits stationary and I try to turn it the axle will still move some....but I don't seem to get that when it's driving. Most likely because of the force needed to steer it while it's not moving (tire patch contact with concrete), but I'm sorta second guessing the repair that I did; meaning the quality of it. The only things I didn't replace was the roll pin in the drag link arm and the spindles themselves.... Then again I'm probably worried about nothing, IDK. I thought I may have had the pitman arm too loose, but the book says 3/32” lateral movement and it’s only at 1/16th, so it isn’t that. ��
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tie rod.jpg (34.0 KB, 146 views)
File Type: jpg 110_0113.jpg (31.8 KB, 148 views)
File Type: jpg 110_0112.jpg (32.5 KB, 148 views)
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Daniel G.




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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #38  
Old 04-22-2019, 09:37 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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currently working on a 129, I actually checked the slop because of this thread and that one's not terrible. not gonna worry about that one. but I maintain a pair of 1200s and a 125o for a farmer that I know, and I know his 1250 is super sloppy.....

I meant to ask you.... I remember the comments earlier in the thread, about how bad the felt/sponge rubber gasket was... did you replace? or make a new one out of some material you had laying around? I just tipped this 129 over yesterday to power wash it, and saw part of what was left of that steering box gasket come out as I sprayed it from the bottom.

just like they do with Kohler engines and Sunstrand hydros a lot of companies use the same Ross steering box as the Cubs did.... I have a few Ariens machines, and have rebuilt the steering on 2 of them. On one I had to beat on the steering shaft to get the steering wheel off... and I discovered that the bearing cages were shot... all cracked and such, I have a feeling it was because of what I had to do to get the steering wheel off. With that one, I wound up building one steering box out of 2, as on the one that I didn't kill the bearings on, mushroomed the end of the steering shaft beyond belief. That was when I discovered they were hollow and SOFT steel. Good thing I had a 2nd one to salvage parts from... made me do something different to get the steering wheels off of this 129 and the 1650 that I recently gutted..... got both steering wheels off and didn't destroy the shafts in the process, didn't have to beat on the ends of them much, these columns don't bind like the Ariens one did after steering wheel removal, so I'm thinking the bearings on these 2 will have survived the steering wheel removals. Hopefully a helpful tip/ "gotcha" for those that see this thread and are wanting to tear into their own steering columns....
I admit I was afraid to tear into one, before I did it for that 1st time.
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  #39  
Old 04-22-2019, 09:55 PM
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That's funny you mention putting the tie rod on upside down, the rod is upside down on my 126. The deck goes to the notch below all the way up. Putting that one off for now until I do a channel squeeze.
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'71 IHCC 126 - sleeve hitch+assist, 42" deck
'87 CC 1872 and 1811 - Haban, 44C
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  #40  
Old 04-23-2019, 07:45 AM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodge trucker View Post
currently working on a 129, I actually checked the slop because of this thread and that one's not terrible. not gonna worry about that one. but I maintain a pair of 1200s and a 125o for a farmer that I know, and I know his 1250 is super sloppy.....

I meant to ask you.... I remember the comments earlier in the thread, about how bad the felt/sponge rubber gasket was... did you replace? or make a new one out of some material you had laying around? I just tipped this 129 over yesterday to power wash it, and saw part of what was left of that steering box gasket come out as I sprayed it from the bottom.

just like they do with Kohler engines and Sunstrand hydros a lot of companies use the same Ross steering box as the Cubs did.... I have a few Ariens machines, and have rebuilt the steering on 2 of them. On one I had to beat on the steering shaft to get the steering wheel off... and I discovered that the bearing cages were shot... all cracked and such, I have a feeling it was because of what I had to do to get the steering wheel off. With that one, I wound up building one steering box out of 2, as on the one that I didn't kill the bearings on, mushroomed the end of the steering shaft beyond belief. That was when I discovered they were hollow and SOFT steel. Good thing I had a 2nd one to salvage parts from... made me do something different to get the steering wheels off of this 129 and the 1650 that I recently gutted..... got both steering wheels off and didn't destroy the shafts in the process, didn't have to beat on the ends of them much, these columns don't bind like the Ariens one did after steering wheel removal, so I'm thinking the bearings on these 2 will have survived the steering wheel removals. Hopefully a helpful tip/ "gotcha" for those that see this thread and are wanting to tear into their own steering columns....
I admit I was afraid to tear into one, before I did it for that 1st time.
See my previous posts; I did indeed replace the foam seal. A new one is like 15 bucks but last month I did a laminate flooring install in my kitchen- I used some left over foam underlayment for a replacement. Traced it out, cut it out, etc.

The biggest mistake IMO that people make in doing the steering rebuild is incorrect steering wheel removal. I soaked mine in rust penetrate for months before I even attempted to take it off (each week I'd spray it again) so after removing the top nut it just popped off. Too many use the hammer-the-shaft method which can peen the top of the shaft so the nut doesn't go back on, or worse yet, blow out the adjusting plug on the bottom of the box as the box is cast aluminum and really not that heavy. Best method is to use a puller if it won't pull off on its own.

I did a lot of research and thought process before I jumped into this project- new parts, etc so I knew what I was getting into and didn't half a$$ it. I think I did an OK job.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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