1811 fast idle adjust

[West Valley G]

Was the original problem the RPMs went crazy on their own and that is
why you were trying to adjust? I was thinking maybe you worked on something
and were just trying to reset it. If it just went bad on its own either a linkage
broke or a spring or something. And yes it very well could be internal, rebuild time. At 2500 hours it did a lot of work in it's time.


Ken

[1711Cub]

I am working on this specimen at the moment. It is a 1986 Magnum 18 that originally was in my 1811. When I purchased the tractor, it ran beautifully, but other than idle, you could not control the engine speed. I found a low hour M18, and just replaced the engine instead of digging into it. So this sat in the basement for about two years. I just picked up a 1984 682, and the KT17 Series II threw a rod. So I'm prepping this M18 to reside in the 682.

Anyway, last night I split the block, and low and behold, look what was chewed up and sitting in the bottom of the engine block:

I'm waiting on the OEM Kohler gear, and a gasket set to get this puppy back in operation..

[ol'George]

I know you didn't ask for help, but "Waiting on a gasket set" is interesting as
Magnums use sealant on the crankcase halves as well as the jugs to block.
'The only "gaskets" are head gaskets and sometimes crankcase PTO cover, depending of if it had one or not as there was a running change,
the later ones used sealant.
Valve spring covers do use gaskets, and don't forget the orange seal under the cover stud.
I don't know if you've been in them before and familiar with them.
Do follow the service manual on application of sealant, more is not better,
as several oil passages can become blocked, if one is not careful.
And do retorque the Cyl. heads after a few warm ups/cool downs, or you will be replacing them.
As far as sealant, I prefer either yamabond or hondabond to RTV.
Don't mix up the valve lifters, and make sure the oil drain back hole in the PTO end is free of excessive sealant.
Also make sure you reinsert the camshaft plug in the end of the block bore as it came out, insuring a leak free seal.
If you already know this info forgive me, I only mean to help.

[1711Cub]

Yes, the gaskets that I need are for the valve covers, fuel pump, PTO oil pan, and heads. There was very very little RTV on the block, and under the jug. Yes the cam plug fell out when I split the halves. I will follow the recommendations on the sealant.

[Vrobert]

Originally Posted by West Valley G

Was the original problem the RPMs went crazy on their own and that is
why you were trying to adjust? I was thinking maybe you worked on something
and were just trying to reset it. If it just went bad on its own either a linkage
broke or a spring or something. And yes it very well could be internal, rebuild time. At 2500 hours it did a lot of work in it's time.


Ken

I was trying to adjust the max RPMs to get a little better cut on the lawn. I don't think it was running at 3600 (unfortunately my optical tach seems to be busted).

It just jumped up in RPM. I don't see any damage to the gear or weights.

I'm hoping ol'George is correct and I just need to adjust it again and lock it down better.

[Vrobert]

Originally Posted by ol'George

it also might be as simple that the pinch bolt on the governor shaft slipped.
Have you adjusted it lately? maybe while you were trying to adjust the full governed rpm's?
It is worth a check.

Good call bud! I'll give that a try. No visible damage to the gear.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by 1711Cub

Yes, the gaskets that I need are for the valve covers, fuel pump, PTO oil pan, and heads. There was very very little RTV on the block, and under the jug. Yes the cam plug fell out when I split the halves. I will follow the recommendations on the sealant.

If you have the new style Kohler plastic fuel pump it uses an "O" ring seal not a gasket
On the cam plug:
it is "staked in" with 4 punch marks,
Try your best to align the 4 punch marks so the dimples match, you can use witness marks, stains of other signs to "clock" the plug as it came out.
it just makes it easier to reseal.
Sometimes one is lucky and seals properly, when all signs of alignment are gone.
But I just hate to see them weep or worse drip, because it was not mentioned in the service manual.
LUCK!

[Vrobert]

Originally Posted by ol'George

it also might be as simple that the pinch bolt on the governor shaft slipped.
Have you adjusted it lately? maybe while you were trying to adjust the full governed rpm's?
It is worth a check.

You nailed it! The governor clamp must have popped loose when I was high revving it. I also discovered my optical tach does still work at dusk, but not at high noon. Even in the shade, it won't read.

I'll be back on the grass pony this weekend, with sharp blades and greased spindles.

Thanks again!

[1711Cub]

Originally Posted by ol'George

If you have the new style Kohler plastic fuel pump it uses an "O" ring seal not a gasket
On the cam plug:
it is "staked in" with 4 punch marks,
Try your best to align the 4 punch marks so the dimples match, you can use witness marks, stains of other signs to "clock" the plug as it came out.
it just makes it easier to reseal.
Sometimes one is lucky and seals properly, when all signs of alignment are gone.
But I just hate to see them weep or worse drip, because it was not mentioned in the service manual.
LUCK!

Thank you. Is there any special consideration for the cam timing? I see the marks on the respective parts, but does the crank have to be oriented in any specific way to line them up? The service manual was kinda vague about this, and the photo was not very clear.



Vrobert: Glad you solved your governor issues without having to tear down the engine. It is not the worst thing I have done, but it isn't great either! LOL

[ol'George]

Nothing special on cam/crank timing, just line up the marks as you lay them in the block half, roll them over insuring they do mesh properly.
Inspect the plastic oil pump drive gear as well as the pin that drives it, because there was some broken parts mixing in the "blender" so to speak.
Also look at the case 1/2's as well as the connecting rods to see if they wedged the broken gov. gear between them and the case
Sadly some parts decide they want to exit the case making escape holes in the block
it is not rocket science, just common sense.
flush the cases and blow out with air, paying attention oil suction areas and tube/passage to the oil pump cavity.
If you didn't pay attention to the valve lifters and they got mixed up,
( chit happens) they should be the same length but mike them so you know for sure.
in the event they are different length you will want to know that so you can set the valve clearance accordingly.
When working on any engine it is good to have the lifters go back on the lobe they established a wear pattern with.
sometimes that just ain't possible so it is what it is.
Some info just is not in service manuals some is, but for future readers good info is always helpful.