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#11
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This may seem stupid but it worth a try to mention, specifically with the charge pump! The center piece of rotor assembly gear has a pin thru the shaft that is the "key" so that it can turn with the shaft. Is that there? This pin can slide off the shaft easily when you remove the center rotor.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#12
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I'll refer to my post #6:
Do you have the charge pump housing installed with the milled flat on the correct side? The pump housing is oval shaped with 2 bolts holding it to the hydro. Sitting on the tractor, looking down at the charge pump housing between your legs, the right ear that the bolt goes through is the one that has a milled flat on the end of the oval housing. If it is on the left side, that is your problem. Just making sure that you understand, no offence. |
#13
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If you have absolutely verified that the charge pump is not the issue, then the unit has to come out and come apart. I rebuilt hydraulics for a living for twenty eight years and have seen most every failure possible, I'm sure. Including trouble shooting after the rebuild. The U15 Sundstrand is a very simple hydrostat, but even simple won't work if something "simple" is wrong.
The most common problem with your symptoms is the lens plate (brass) is not seated flat on the head. Or damage to the lens plate rotating surface. Did you "polish" or sand the lens plates? |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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Quote:
In the hydro itself, the most common problem is wear and grooves in the lens plates (two brass plates) and barrel (piston block) mating surfaces. We precision ground and lapped those surfaces, but the chances of you finding someone to do that are about zero. Loose slippers on the pistons may cause vibration, but not weakness. Like most companies, Sundstrand got swallowed up several times. Sundstrand , then Sundstrand Sauer, then Sauer Danfoss and so on. But the parts are still available form the current owners, whoever that is now. Just google Sundstrand U15 and sart fallowing links. There are some pretty good vids and the original repair manuals in free PDF's. For the average guy, it's likely best to buy two complete rotating groups which will include lens plates, barrels, pistons, and hold down plates, plus springs and pins. I'm retired, but for me, I'd just go to the shop and resurface everything. Other than a few second polish on very fine paper on a machined flat surface, don't try sanding out any grooves yourself. I don't care what anybody's "old millwright neighbor" tells you. You'll end up contaminating your entire system when it fails and cause future failures as a result. Seen it many times. "I just polished it a bit" was a phrase we heard from many new costumers. The hydro is the Heart of your tractor, Both tough as nails and simple, yet very susceptible. As far as parts go, I'm in BC Canada, so not viable. But these hydro's are still used in countless thousands of machines from tractors, sweepers, swathers and other farm equipment to airport transporters and construction lifts. Google will locate a source for you. |
#16
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Thank you!
Well she's also very loud under load, like, abnormally loud, especially on an uphill or with a garden trailer full of stuff. Lots of whine coming from the pump. Has a hard time lifting implements even when standing still on a flat surface with the engine at full throttle. Trying to find a replacement without having to buy a whole spare tractor along with it. Would potentially allow me to make one good one out of the two, or rebuild one completely while the other gets the yard chores done. |
#17
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This thread kinda went off the rails somewhat, didn't it? I'd like to keep a thread discussion/problem solving to the original poster otherwise I'm getting confused to whose specific problem we are dealing with. Thank you.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
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