Help identifying wiring issues - Page 3

ol'George · #21 03-01-2022, 08:15 PM

If you put the jumper wire on the (S) terminal of the key switch and the solenoid blue wire, does it start when turning the switch?
if yes the switch is ok, move on.
Next put the jumper from the Switch to the engine connector, and try to start it, does it start? if yes, move on to the output side of the brake switch, and try to start it with the key switch, Does it start? if yes move to the input side of the
brake switch, Now you will have to depress the brake for it to start.
Does it start? if yes, move on to the PTO switch, if it does not start you have found the problem in the brake switch.
Do you see how you are following the wiring diagram to find the place where the voltage drops?
Any questions?

EternalArianne · #22 03-28-2022, 06:27 AM

Sorry for the long time with no update. I've been messing with it here and there.

I've been working backwards from the brake switch and so far nothing has worked. My last test is the ignition switch directly to the solenoid. It's just hard to get in there without touching the other pins. I'll update again once I do that final test. The ignition switch and PTO switches are brand new as well...

EternalArianne · #23 04-10-2022, 01:04 PM

Everything with the wiring seems to check out. But now I'm wondering if there is a totally different problem, since now it won't even start with jumping the the 12V hot wire directly to the blue start peg on the solenoid, where it previously would. I hear the "thunk" and nothing else.

Could it be the actual starter itself this whole time and I've just been chasing wiring ghosts?

Brianator · #24 04-10-2022, 08:42 PM

Sounds like the starter solenoid is shot or the ground is broken/corroded. Best to remove it from the machine and bench test it quick IMO. This isn't for everyone BUT anytime I've had to replace a starter solenoid I always go to the auto parts store and get a fender mount style for a Ford (call it a 1980 F150). They're cheap, easy to find, compact, durable and easy to retrofit into basically anything. Getting a warranty that's easy to have honored close to home is anyways a bonus too!

EternalArianne · #25 04-10-2022, 08:48 PM

The solenoid is brand new that was the first thing I replaced. It's totally possible it could be bad, but that would make two bad solenoids (the original + the new one). I'm just pulling my hair out on this, I've even ran a straight wire from the ignition switch (which is also new) to the blue start pin on the solenoid AND a straight ground wire from the battery to the solenoid casing, still just a "thunk".

ol'George · #26 04-10-2022, 09:00 PM

Have you tried to put a jumper cable from the positive post of the battery, directly to the lug on the starter motor?
that should spin the starter, if it does not, then you have a starter problem.
OR your starter is not grounded.

Don't be alarmed it you see a spark when you touch the positive jumper cable to the starter post/lug

Brianator · #27 04-11-2022, 12:17 AM

I was taught it's always best to connect to positive first (whenever possible) to avoid sparks because "without a ground the power has nowhere to go". I know someone who had a battery blow up in their face attempting to boost a car battery who wishes he knew this before hand...

Well if your solenoid is making the "thunk" sound then the contactor is working but something else inside could have broken? Still can't hurt to do a continuity test with a multimeter to be sure, it only takes a few seconds.

EternalArianne · #28 04-12-2022, 04:35 PM

Ok jumper cable from battery + terminal to lug on starter makes it spin, so starter is good.

I even unplugged the entire starting circuit and ran a straight wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid, still just a thunk.

My only other thing I can try is a wire straight from the battery + to the solenoid start pin, bypassing the entire circuit. I may try that later unless anyone else has suggestions. Seems like every time I think I've got it and it starts multiple tries, then it stops again and I'm back to pulling my hair out!

ol'George · #29 04-12-2022, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EternalArianne

Ok jumper cable from battery + terminal to lug on starter makes it spin, so starter is good.

I even unplugged the entire starting circuit and ran a straight wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid, still just a thunk.

My only other thing I can try is a wire straight from the battery + to the solenoid start pin, bypassing the entire circuit. I may try that later unless anyone else has suggestions. Seems like every time I think I've got it and it starts multiple tries, then it stops again and I'm back to pulling my hair out!

ok, starter is good.

Put a Bat + to small terminal on sol as you mentioned, if starter spins, back track with that hot wire following the wiring diagram, till the starter no longer spins then you will have isolated the problem.
Have you cleaned the wire ends (female) on the ignition switch plug, as well as switch terminals? (male spades) they are a known problem area, especially the hot lead from the battery.

Don't pull your hair out, Ha,LOL! you are getting closer to the Cheese, and when you find it, much joy will result,----- and you will find it.

EternalArianne · #30 04-13-2022, 04:05 PM

Ok so a wire from battery + to the start pin on the solenoid (blue wire connector) is having same issue, just an intermittent thunk. But a wire from battery + to the lug on the starter causes it to spin.

So there is some kind of breakdown between the solenoid and starter it seems? Solenoid is brand new so I guess starter is the problem?