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#1
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Pulley removal problem
I have a Cub Cadet 106 with a good pulley behind the PTO clutch, that I need to pull, to use on a 104 with a damaged pulley. I've removed the PTO & bearing from the 106 and the 2 set screws from the pulley. I've been soaking with penetrating fluid and it's just rusted on. I've hit it with heat until it's glowing and put water on to help free it up, but still frozen. I've tried a pulley puller, but stopped when it started to flex too much. Any thoughts? Thanks
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#2
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Click the sponsor at the top of the page, "Parts by Jeff".
Scroll down until you see "PTO pulley puller". |
#3
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Here’s what the book says. Never failed for me but I don’t recall having one really rusted on.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
#4
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I would suggest the puller from Jeff in PA as well, but if you really wanted to make do with what you have there is another option. Simply drill 2 holes through the middle part of the pulley, close to the center, so that you can run bolts through them and use a standard puller.
The holes won't affect the functionality of the pulley as long as you don't drill them too far away from the center and bend the pulley. Of course you also have to be okay with drilling holes in the part, which not everyone is. As a plus it ensures that in the future you'll always have a way to remove it if it gets stuck again.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#5
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Pulley Removal
I have successfully used Jeff's puller, after a lot of beating myself and the danged pulley up before deciding to try Jeff's "invention". I would only add my recipe for a solvent to aid in the rust removal. I use an equal parts mixture of acetone and power steering fluid and keep the rusted parts doused and wet while trying to move any part that you want to move or offers to move the tiniest bit. Really works with enough patience. Good luck, Friend. It ain't easy. Carpetbagger
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#6
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I just got Jeff's tool in the mail a couple of days ago. I tried it last night and wouldn't budge. I soaked it in Kroil several times and tightened it as much as I could with hand tools and left it sit with tension on it overnight. I'm at work now, that pulley is still under tension at home unless it has since decided to budge.
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#7
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I find that hitting the key breaks the bond, only moving it a 1/16" no further or you will have bigger problems.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#8
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If you heated it red then dumped water on it, it's most likely never coming off without galling the shaft. That treatment will shrink the hub.
Your best bet is to leave that one on there and get another for the tractor you want to use. |
#9
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I've had a lot of success using a prybar behind and applying hits with an air chisel on the end of the shaft. It's a natural motion to hold the pistol and pull a prybar to you. It has worked every time for me. Just switch out the chisel for a point. You'd be amazed what that rapid vibration does to loosen up things and get'em moving.
If you don't have one it's a cheap investment from a Harbor Freight type store. |
Tags |
kohler 10hp |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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