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  #1  
Old 05-21-2022, 10:02 AM
149Chris 149Chris is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: DeWitt, Michigan
Posts: 13
Default 1200 - Looking for Clutch rebuild advice

I recently purchased a QL1200 on the cheap as I always wanted a stick shift. The complaint was it shook a lot even though it drove OK. I tore it down to find ISO joints that were mush (expected). However, about very clutch piece is hurting. The 3 finger driver is only a 2 finger, the clutch plate is hogged out where the missing finger was, the throw out bearing is coming apart, and the clutch fork is extremely wore. Pricing out the original replacement parts is a staggering total! Has anybody had luck rebuilding the 3 finger driver? Adding weld to the throw out fork and regrinding the profile? Using Zack Kerber parts & Jeff's solid mounts?
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File Type: jpg Driver & Disc 2 Small.jpg (28.5 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg Everything Small.jpg (30.7 KB, 91 views)
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2022, 10:47 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,983
Default

Should be able to replace the missing finger and bushing on the 3 pin driver if it is not cracked around the center spring plate. On edit: :Looks like there is something else missing from the center of the 3 pin driver as well.

The clutch throw out lever can be resurfaced with no problems as well as the clutch plates themselves.

Other than that you will have to buy the clutch disc, throw out bearing and driveshaft if it is gouged and worn from the spring riding on it.

Oh yes, and the bearing surfaces in the clutch lever hanger and throw out lever may need attention as well.
Many of these gear drive Cubs have really been abused
Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2022, 12:22 PM
149Chris 149Chris is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
S :Looks like there is something else missing from the center of the 3 pin driver as well.
!
Good catch. The shaft bushing was still in the engine.
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  #4  
Old 05-21-2022, 12:34 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Location: Pennsylvania
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The 3 pin driver for the Quietlines have a flex plate in the center that allowed for engine movement because of the ISO setup.
That flex plate usually ends up cracking after the ISO mounts go bad due to excessive engine movement.
If you are going with solid mounts you won't have any engine movement, therefore you can use the solid 3 pin driver for non-ISO Cubs.
They are much cheaper and more available. You can find them used and new easily on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27520219558...MAAOSwGHJiKJiP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27503122218...gAAOSw6HhhlPMy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25548037061...8AAOSw4lZiUfI9
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28476760468...sAAOSwpr1iWXFZ
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Old 05-22-2022, 09:42 AM
Workingstiff Workingstiff is offline
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Location: Michigan
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I decided to go solid mount and solid disc. There is just the slightest bit of vibration. It wouldn't stop me from going this way again.
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'76 1200 Dad bought
'75 1200 "Twinsie" per my daughter
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Old 05-23-2022, 09:13 AM
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Radioguy41 Radioguy41 is offline
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There's some info here that may help:

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