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#11
05-06-2022, 09:17 AM
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Ok good info. I would definitely have to split it to make that repair. Do you think my splitting procedure I wrote earlier would even work?
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#12
05-06-2022, 10:22 AM
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Your plan will work fine. If you have jack stands you can place them
under the frame assuming front tires are still on. Then leave the rear tires on also and just roll it out of the tractor frame. Ken
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#13
05-06-2022, 10:31 AM
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To clean up gunk from parts I've had the best results with Dawn dish soap. I make everything wet and then take a scrub brush dipped in dawn dish soap and scrub and spray.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#14
05-12-2022, 07:56 PM
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Got the drive shaft swapped with a nice one I found online. Good flex disc joint and good metal fan. I lifted the tractor up, removed the oil filter, removed the fan shroud, drove the pin out, pulled the old bent drive shaft and installed the new one. I had to use new screws to hold the fan shroud on. Not a bad repair.
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#15
05-14-2022, 03:38 PM
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I agree with what Ken said,the rear assembly is a hefty piece of iron to be lifting.By leaving the wheels on,you basically turn it into a balancing act.A block of wood under the front,missing that fragile tube and your good.Ken's method your working smarter,safer,not harder.
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