Small pin removal frustrations

[CubbyRI]

well tractor is almost totally apart, but those dam small pins (spiral and roll) just wont move. I have a (cheap) pin punch set and PB Blaster penetrant. Also, have not used my ox-acetylene torch yet but that's coming!

Trying to pull the driveshaft coupler at the transmission, the clutch-brake pedal cross over shaft pin, and the front axle pin.

suggestions welcome but it looks like may be time for some real heat... if I heat the end of that driveshaft the coupler is loose so I dont think it will overheat into the transmission input shaft, and that needs a new seal anyway...

if heating doesnt work and the pins get mangled then what? they are too hard to drill out supposedly.

[Workingstiff]

The pins look flush to the surface. Support and a 3LB hammer

[CubbyRI]

how do I support it? wood? and does torch heat ever help?

[cooperino]

Agreed.. support it and whack it! I use my air hammer with a bit I made specifically for the pins.

[CubbyRI]

Cut a wood block for support? As to the air hammer, I HAD one but IIRC it was a cheapo HF one and I may have tossed it for being weak. may look on ebay for a used snap-on or IR one and do it right.

As to HF, I was an HF snob but the pic of my engine hanging over the cub includes, a HF chainfall, HF alum jack, HF impact gun (which I am VERY impressed with that one!), and who knows what else... I guess no more chit-talkin HF for me!

[ol'George]

Do not use heat on the coupling/shaft!!
You will ruin the heat treatment.
Support it with a jack or piece of metal on concrete and whack the pin punch with a B.F.hammer, sometimes a person can hold the pin punch with a pair of vice grips if they are afraid of hitting their hand/fingers.
If the coiled pin is mushroomed, hit it from the other end or grind it flush.
You will not get it out if it has a mushroomed head.
As mentioned an air hammer works well,
but still solidly support the shaft, as it makes
the pin come out easier.

[Alvy]

There’s a small chance that the coupler to trans has spun and the pin will never come out if holes are mis aligned. Like I said small chance but worth taking a couple pipe wrenches first to try to move coupler/driveshaft separately.

Get some good pin punches with locating nub on them and good advice to drive or beat pins flush first, support, etc.

I’ve beat shafts out breaking roll pins as last resort then you have 3 separate pieces to knock out BUT last resort. Use brass punch in this case.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Alvy

There’s a small chance that the coupler to trans has spun and the pin will never come out if holes are mis aligned. Like I said small chance but worth taking a couple pipe wrenches first to try to move coupler/driveshaft separately.

Get some good pin punches with locating nub on them and good advice to drive or beat pins flush first, support, etc.

I’ve beat shafts out breaking roll pins as last resort then you have 3 separate pieces to knock out BUT last resort. Use brass punch in this case.

Alvy,
over the years, I have seen the broken pin situation more than rarely,
one example is on a QA snow thrower drive sprocket.

[lwrehm]

A couple years ago I had a hell of a time getting the pin out of the drive shaft of one of the 102s. Ended up using one of those punches with the ball end (no clue what they are called) with a cheap Harbor Freight are chisel. Used a coupling nut that the punch would fit into and a bolt with the head cut off as kind of a holder to keep the punch and chisel in contact. Still took a hell of a time to get it out.

Once it was out I figured out why it was such a bear to remove, this may not be a very good picture but you should be able to see the ridge it was hanging on...

[CubbyRI]

Success. OK I couldnt get the rear end out with the driveshaft attached because the clutch end wouldnt have come out. I didnt try to take that apart. I DID use heat on the driveshaft end (sorry George didnt see your post until I came back inside), it was the only way I could get the pin to budge, but quenched it in water to hopefully restore some hardness. If not, I'll have to source another less rusty shaft (or make a stainless one on my lathe?).

Got the rear pin out easier (no heat obviously on the input shaft).

As to supporting it, an impact socket wedged under the coupler worked perfect.

Got the brake pedal shaft off too, that was a lot of work, including power sanding the paint and rust off that shaft so I could slide (hammer/pb) the bellcrank off of it as it came out. The differential water came out too.

Now, the front axle pin is the issue.

The pin is stuck firmly in the axle. Blows with a splitting maul did nothing but pean over the end. It is very loose in the frame bushings, so I can make new ones and weld them on. Should I heat the cast iron axle center, the big stuck pivot pin, or do something else?


Thanks for all the help