Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

Cub Cadet Classics R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres Binder Books

CC Speciaalties IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!



Only Cub Cadets Chat!

OCC Archives


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Engines > Kohler Engines

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-14-2019, 10:18 PM
rsshallop rsshallop is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Minden, Ontario
Posts: 34
Default K241 initial measurements for rebuild/fix

Hello, My progress on rebuilding the K241 for my cub 108 is coming along at full turtle speed. Well, At least there is some progress. And, this is one of the first posts I have made since joining this website that isn't a shout out for help. So, I feel good about that. After cleaning the valve guide on the exhaust side both guides appear to be withing usable specs (measured with a mic).

Exhaust guide: mid-point between .312 and .313
Intake guide: mid-point between .312 and .313

(ol'George, you were right. The reamer did clean up a considerable amount of carbon. I'm sorry I didn't that a picture of the carbon on the end of the reamer to document)

Next is the cylinder bore (taken several times with my mic and telescoping gauge)

A axis top center and bottom: 3.252, 3.251, 3.251
B axis top center and bottom: 3.253, 3.252, 3.252

(I'm pretty sure that these measurements fall will within the max wear limit 3.2545, max out of round .005 and max allowable taper .0015)

Next, the crankpin. These measurements were very difficult to take

A axis left middle and right: mid-point between 1.50 and 1.499
B axis left middle and right: mid-point between 1.50 and 1.499

( I think I will be OK here too with a max out of round of .0005 and a max taper of .001)

Next, camshaft end play: .013 (taken with a feeler gauge)

******************

Using these measurements I plan to take the block to someone in town that I met who does small engine repairs. He has some hand tools to hone the cylinder wall with a new cross hatch and cut the valve seat to 45 degree angle. Then, I will re-measure the cylinder bore to see if it is still within specs. If all is good, I will the order new parts to put it back together.

- new exhaust and intake valves
- new STD piston, rings and connecting rod.
- shim kit for camshaft end play
- new governor gear

Also, the pully/PTO end of the crankshaft needs a new key path cut into it. I will have to have that done at a machine shop.

Hope this posting finds everyone well,

Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 025.jpg (19.1 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg 026.jpg (17.1 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg 035.jpg (20.1 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 036.jpg (14.4 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 039.jpg (18.9 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 040.jpg (19.2 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 045.jpg (19.7 KB, 51 views)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-14-2019, 11:21 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 4,480
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsshallop View Post
Hello, My progress on rebuilding the K241 for my cub 108 is coming along at full turtle speed. Well, At least there is some progress. And, this is one of the first posts I have made since joining this website that isn't a shout out for help. So, I feel good about that. After cleaning the valve guide on the exhaust side both guides appear to be withing usable specs (measured with a mic).

Exhaust guide: mid-point between .312 and .313
Intake guide: mid-point between .312 and .313

(ol'George, you were right. The reamer did clean up a considerable amount of carbon. I'm sorry I didn't that a picture of the carbon on the end of the reamer to document)

Next is the cylinder bore (taken several times with my mic and telescoping gauge)

A axis top center and bottom: 3.252, 3.251, 3.251
B axis top center and bottom: 3.253, 3.252, 3.252

(I'm pretty sure that these measurements fall will within the max wear limit 3.2545, max out of round .005 and max allowable taper .0015)

Next, the crankpin. These measurements were very difficult to take

A axis left middle and right: mid-point between 1.50 and 1.499
B axis left middle and right: mid-point between 1.50 and 1.499

( I think I will be OK here too with a max out of round of .0005 and a max taper of .001)

Next, camshaft end play: .013 (taken with a feeler gauge)

******************

Using these measurements I plan to take the block to someone in town that I met who does small engine repairs. He has some hand tools to hone the cylinder wall with a new cross hatch and cut the valve seat to 45 degree angle. Then, I will re-measure the cylinder bore to see if it is still within specs. If all is good, I will the order new parts to put it back together.

- new exhaust and intake valves
- new STD piston, rings and connecting rod.
- shim kit for camshaft end play
- new governor gear

Also, the pully/PTO end of the crankshaft needs a new key path cut into it. I will have to have that done at a machine shop.

Hope this posting finds everyone well,

Ross
Check that the crankshaft, where the keyway is wallowed out, that it is not worn undersize,
if not, then put the new keyway *90 to the old one.

Just use a dingle-berry/ ball hone to de-glaze the bore for new rings.
You don't want to remove any material, making an already worn bore larger.

When measuring the crank, the most worn part is where the piston is at the top of the stroke, and the least, 1/2 way down, (*90) that is your comparison to be read.
Also check in the same position to see if the crank pin is tapered about it's length, in-other-words on the surface that would see if the rod was rocking side to side, causing a taper on the crankpin.
In an ideal situation, the crankpin would show no wear or taper.
An out of round crankpin will knock during usage as will a worn pin.

Your combined cyl taper is .002 top to bottom max.
It will work, but it will use just a tad of oil as the piston rings will be expanding/contracting as they go up/down and you have an out of round condition where the wall contact will be lost.
---- But oil usage will use less than it does now.
The right way would be to bore/hone to first oversize, but an economical fix is re ring as you plan.
Don't know how long you plan on keeping it or how many hours you are going to use it.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-15-2019, 05:47 PM
rsshallop rsshallop is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Minden, Ontario
Posts: 34
Default

Yes, ol'George, I do have a lot to consider before I proceed any further. The tractor doesn't even have a PTO or mowing deck, and it needs a lot more than just engine work to get up to a good standard. If I proceed as I have planned, then I have put a lot of new parts into a engine rebuild, that as you have pointed out, may not run as well for as long as I would like. Furthermore, what am I going to do with this tractor when I am finished the project? I want to work it for sure and that will require attachments. The only benefit I have derived from buying this tractor so far is the pleasure of working on it and learning a little bit about the history of the IH company (which is all pretty cool in itself). Maybe all I end up with this summer is a rebuilt engine that I can deploy at some future point? Yes, lots for me to think about. Thanks for your feedback.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:53 PM
rsshallop rsshallop is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Minden, Ontario
Posts: 34
Default

In the meantime, I will recheck the crankshaft as you have indicated.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, & do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH®, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER® are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.