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#1
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125 Drive shaft
Since my engine is at the machine shop I took the opportunity to change my driveshaft because it isn’t very straight and was causing vibration. So I consulted my shop manual on how to split the tractor because I thought it would be easier. The directions and illustrations are good, but the tractor in the manual doesn’t have a sleeve hitch. When I had the seat and fenders off, the seat support is connected to the lifting mechanism. By the time I got there, I could see the back of the hystat pump but not the drive shaft connection. I decided to put it all back together and try a different route. Has anyone here changed a driveshaft on a 125 while the engine was out? What am I doing wrong, or how can I change my approach?
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#2
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Did you try unbolting the Drive Shaft Adapter (#1) from the Flex Disc (#50) and simply pull out the Drive Shaft ??
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#3
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No, but I will this weekend. Thank you.
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#4
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The #2 part almost always by this time of age, will have significant wear resulting from the hardened coil pin in part#1. Other causes of vibration are any or all driveline assembly components. From the shaft, shaft coil pin holes, shift couplings, and even the pump input Shaft. These models I respect the most of any when you consider the components needed to be removed for drive line refurbishment, it's really cool how well made these tractors are. The sponsors have all parts needed to correct. Just tear down and inspect . I have the perfect 1/4" punch that makes coil pin removal simple in the tunnel frame tractors such as thie 125. Easy Peazie lemon Squeezie!
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#5
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I’d like to clean all the grime off the transaxle too, I went back out to the barn and had another look. I’ve just been so focused on the details of engine removal and tear down lately. It has a small hystat leak somewhere, but it’s impossible to tell right now because it’s so dirty. The differential cover seeps I’m sure of. Will that chemical called GUNK engine cleaner harm any external transaxle parts like seals? I really need to clean it before troubleshooting a leak.
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#6
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Don't know how you are set up for moving things around and cleaning etc
but here is my plan of attack normally. Start dousing everything with Simple green. As often as you think of it. Maybe do this for several days. Knock the heavy stuff of as you go. Then it is off to the pressure washer. I do this even before I split the tractor. Then when it is split you can do it again. Lots of patience will clean it up nice. 50 years of accumulated crud takes some doing to clean up. And worth every minute of effort. Ken |
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