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  #21  
Old 07-30-2018, 05:43 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Should have the number cast into the inside.
I think you have the wrong carb if it's a #26
Should be a #30 for the 14's and 16's
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  #22  
Old 07-30-2018, 07:27 PM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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I couldn’t find any casting on the carb but from the research I did the measurement I took certainly appears to be a #26.

Playing devils advocate for a moment: let’s say the original 321aqs blew and the PO threw a 301 or something else he had laying around. What if any problems will arise from putting the larger carb on? I have read some online about people putting the #30 carb on a 12hp and 10hp engines but their motivations were for pulling whereas I’m more concerned about longevity.

Sorry to play the what if game, I’m just trying to decide between parking the tractor until I have time to strip off the tin and identify the engine or if I can just throw on the new carb, tune it and stop worrying about it till a later date.
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  #23  
Old 07-30-2018, 07:35 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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I think you will have to pull the PTO off to positively I.D that engine.
Should be cast into the the block behind the PTO
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  #24  
Old 07-30-2018, 09:52 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperlightboards48 View Post
Just took off the carb and measured the bore of the inner side. It was a hair over 26 mm
The number is cast into the throat of the carb on an original carb. (On the venturri behind the choke plate. You can see it if you open the choke. It's on the top side.) If it is an aftermarket, it likely does not have it cast into it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Should have the number cast into the inside.
I think you have the wrong carb if it's a #26
Should be a #30 for the 14's and 16's
The K341 (16hp) is the only engine that used the #30. 14 used a #26.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperlightboards48 View Post
Playing devils advocate for a moment: let’s say the original 321aqs blew and the PO threw a 301 or something else he had laying around. What if any problems will arise from putting the larger carb on? I have read some online about people putting the #30 carb on a 12hp and 10hp engines but their motivations were for pulling whereas I’m more concerned about longevity.
You have the correct carb. Do not put a #30 on it. Alot of the people that do that don't realize they are causing more trouble than they are helping. Even in pulling, the larger carb kills the smaller motors.


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Originally Posted by hyperlightboards48 View Post
Sorry to play the what if game, I’m just trying to decide between parking the tractor until I have time to strip off the tin and identify the engine or if I can just throw on the new carb, tune it and stop worrying about it till a later date.
Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
I think you will have to pull the PTO off to positively I.D that engine.
Should be cast into the the block behind the PTO
You cannot pull the tins OR the PTO and identify the engine. The cast numbers that may or may not be behind the PTO won't identify it. Only some 301's had the size cast into them, and a lot of K241's (10HP) also had "301" cast on the front, even though they are not 301's. It was a casting error. ONLY way to ID an engine is by removing the head and measuring the bore. On the outside, and 10, 12 and 14 all look the same. 16's had a larger exhaust outlet, and can be easily identified. The 7/8 engines were all their own.


To the OP:
I think you asked what to do about the mis matched linkage. What the PO did..... well, it does work. That said, I would change it over. You can run it that way until you get a spring. They aren't hard to get, and don't cost too much. Cut off the tip on that throttle arm, and get the air filter to fit. I don't believe you can get the side tins on with that dipstick, but I may be wrong. Need a blank cover.

I'm curious, where is the other dipstick at? There are two possible locations for it. Knowing where it is will help identify what it may have been from, but not likely. I'm just wondering. It could go into the top right corner of the block, or it may go down to the lower right side and be bolted on. Which is it?

On another note, there are two thicknesses of carb gaskets available. On some engines, you need the thicker gasket to get clearance for all the linkage to line up and fit. I think the AQS engines used the thicker one. Parts book shows it does, but it isn't always correct. That may affect air cleaner housing clearance.
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  #25  
Old 07-31-2018, 11:31 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
You have the correct carb. Do not put a #30 on it. Alot of the people that do that don't realize they are causing more trouble than they are helping. Even in pulling, the larger carb kills the smaller motors.
Sounds like a plan, its strange all the aftermarket carbs I looked at list the #30 being for 14 and 16hp. And the #26 being for the smaller engine. I'm not saying they are correct, as half of them have the incorrect choke tab anyways. I'm just saying you have to know what you are looking for, cannot just go by what the sites say; Thus I come here


Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
ONLY way to ID an engine is by removing the head and measuring the bore. On the outside, and 10, 12 and 14 all look the same. 16's had a larger exhaust outlet, and can be easily identified.

Guess I'll pick up a gasket for when I'm ready to really get to the bottom of what I have. For now the tractor is doing everything I want it to with the current motor so I'm not extremely worried about what I have, but it certainly would be nice to know for a go forward basis,


Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I think you asked what to do about the mis matched linkage. What the PO did..... well, it does work. That said, I would change it over. You can run it that way until you get a spring. They aren't hard to get, and don't cost too much. Cut off the tip on that throttle arm, and get the air filter to fit.
That's what I ended up doing last night. I'll order up a spring with my next order of parts.

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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I don't believe you can get the side tins on with that dipstick, but I may be wrong. Need a blank cover.
It does! You can see it slightly has hit the inside part of the panel as some of the paint has been scuffed but it does fit. It's a very nice be able to check the left and right side of the oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I'm curious, where is the other dipstick at? There are two possible locations for it. Knowing where it is will help identify what it may have been from, but not likely. I'm just wondering. It could go into the top right corner of the block, or it may go down to the lower right side and be bolted on. Which is it?
It is front right, its hard to tell with that side panel on, side panels are a pain to get off with the loader, I have to disconnect the brace in order to do so. Can you tell from this pic which one it is, if not ill pop the panel off to see if its bolted on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
On another note, there are two thicknesses of carb gaskets available. On some engines, you need the thicker gasket to get clearance for all the linkage to line up and fit. I think the AQS engines used the thicker one. Parts book shows it does, but it isn't always correct. That may affect air cleaner housing clearance.
Ill look into that, didn't think the gaskets would be that thick.
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  #26  
Old 07-31-2018, 11:32 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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  #27  
Old 07-31-2018, 12:06 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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It's a bolt on dipstick. That means it's a later block. Someone did some odd mix and matching putting that engine in.

On the carbs, I think the later K321's that had the larger exhaust valve may have used a different carb, but I'm not sure. I can't remember. I'll look at some of my engines and see if the newer ones have the #30, but I really don't think they do.
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  #28  
Old 08-03-2018, 12:08 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
On the carbs, I think the later K321's that had the larger exhaust valve may have used a different carb, but I'm not sure. I can't remember. I'll look at some of my engines and see if the newer ones have the #30, but I really don't think they do.
So, I was incorrect. The later K321's with the big exhaust valve DOES use a #30. I've been thinking about this post since I made it, and kept thinking I was remembering wrong. I just tore down a big valve K321 today, and noticed it had a #30. Went and checked a small valve 321 I had on the shelf and it has a #26. So, there it is.
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2018, 08:40 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Thanks for the follow up. When I get around to taking the head off measuring, if I do in fact have a 14hp and the larger exhaust valve I’ll pick up a #30 carb. For now I’ll run the 26, and suffer from potential depleted performance. Or am I potentially running lean?

Just say it- if I need to take the head off I’ll do it and stop asking scenario based questions . But if I can run the smaller carb with no worries I’d rather go that route for now.
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  #30  
Old 08-03-2018, 11:02 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I don't think it will run lean even with the smaller carb. It might suffer from a small loss of power, but that should be it. Fuel ratio is amount of air fuel mix you have. Smaller carb can't let as much air in as the big one. It's pretty easy to tell if an engine is running lean anyway.
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