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  #11  
Old 08-01-2023, 05:54 AM
3Kseries4ever 3Kseries4ever is offline
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I would check the reverse light switch, part of the circuit disengages the PTO when you go in reverse.

Bill
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2023, 02:10 PM
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Default 3186

Back up lights work great.
Engine getting hot, I think it caused a vapor lock.
Also have an oil leak. Will have to pull motor to check that out.
Winter project for that.
All the switches work ok.
Any other suggestions.
If worst comes to worst I'll use my HDS 2135.
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2023, 03:01 PM
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Also low fuel light is working backwards.
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  #14  
Old 08-01-2023, 08:53 PM
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I’m thinking you’re having an issue with the relay.

You need to look at the back of the free service manual and see how the circuit works. You can download it from here.

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Cub...epair-Manuals/

The B&S models should be the same as the Kohler powered machines. Follow the pto “on” schematic snd see where you are dropping the ground at. Something is probably turning the relay off.

Good luck and let us know.
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  #15  
Old 08-01-2023, 09:43 PM
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Relay was removed and a jumper wire was put in its place.
Since relay is removed be my problem?
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  #16  
Old 08-02-2023, 05:37 AM
3Kseries4ever 3Kseries4ever is offline
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Over heating problems are often plugged cooling fins. If it has been run with the upper baffle off or the accordion connection to the engine off, the engine is literally stuffed with grass fines. Pull all the cooling sheet metal and clean it out. People think those things are not needed and there have been some "rocket scientists" on youtube that say these things can be thrown away - don't believe it.

Bill
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  #17  
Old 08-02-2023, 07:49 AM
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I never throw away the shrouds.
Motor is really dirty, looks like it has 23 years of built up oil, grass and dirt.
More than likely when it cools off I will pull engine from frame and give both a good cleaning and try and see where oil is leaking from.
Getting ready to order front and rear oil seals.
Thanks for advice.
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2023, 04:56 AM
3Kseries4ever 3Kseries4ever is offline
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Sounds like a good plan. I have a 3185, which is your tractor but with a Briggs instead of a Kohler engine. Mine currently has 1386 hours on it and lives a pretty luxurious life for a garden tractor. I have a broken back and bad knees and this tractor is my "helper", it gets me around the yard and provides the grunt that I can no longer provide. It was the first of my Cub 3000's and started my addiction. I was never a fan of the sloped nose Cubs, but my disability has changed my view and the step thru design offers me a method of mounting and dismounting in a nearly painless fashion. So enjoy your "new to you" Cub.

Bill

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  #19  
Old 08-03-2023, 08:28 AM
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My first Cub was the IH Cub Cadet 582. It had a Briggs and Stratton 16hp. Replaced motor with Kohler 18hp magnum.
Then I got a 682, it had a bad motor. So the magnum came out of 582, and went in the 682. Sold the 582 as it was.
I got a Cub Cadet LT1042. No hump in the middle. The 682 I gave to my nephew, who lives in Iowa, none of our children here wanted it.
Last year I got the HDS2135 with drive shaft to replace the LT1042, the LT1042 kept have stering issues.
A month ago I got the HDS3186. Which I like.
I'm 73 and getting to the point where I'm not as agile as I use to be. So this I hope will last me for a long time.
I'll keep you updated on progress.
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  #20  
Old 08-03-2023, 04:03 PM
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Do you have a good DVOM?

If you do try this

Ignition switch off and pto switch pulled as if you were engaging the mower deck.

Unplug the vacuum solenoid. Use your ohm meter to read continuity from the blue wire of the harness on the machine side to the battery negative terminal. You should read 0 ohms. If you don’t you have an issue with the pto switch, your jumped out relay issue, broken wire or a bad ground wire.

Try that and report back. It sounds like the previous owner made a mess of your wiring.
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