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Old 03-17-2009, 05:59 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,693
Default Restoration Notes

A small, incomplete list of things that I have learned or would do different in the restoration of my 70.

1) Don't learn about your restoration project after the purchase. This was an impulse buy for me, as I found it on ebay locally. I didn't know much, as you should be able to tell from my first post about it. I still don't feel it was a bad buy, but I have to be honest to say that there are a few parts missing that I had no clue at purchase time. The steering didn't even have a the upper bushing in, so the play wasn't just turning the wheel, it moved a circle within a circle. I think I got very lucky that the column rebuild went as smoothly as it did, and worked out well.

2) Take your time, be neat and organized. Lay out your parts in a logical order or paint color in the beginning. Don't just look at the big things. I thought I had all my yellow painted, but found that I forgot about the points cover, coil bracket, and debris bowl top, because they were not with the right parts. As soon as I had the engine bolted down on Sunday, I realized I didn't have the coil bracket mount attached to the engine. A 2 second task with the engine out, and a 30 minute, knuckle busting, paint scratching mess, with the engine in. Review the big items before you reinstall to make sure they are as complete as possible.

3) Read/Study the manual or internet download prior to taking on a task. Don't read it as you are doing the task. (For those who watched the Warner Bros cartoons as kids, you'll probably remember the dog reading the hand grenade instructions while trying to blow up Bugs Bunny. "Pull pin from grenade......over... POW! I love that one)

4) If something doesn't look right, it most likely isn't. While disassembling the steering unit, I removed to sets of ball bearing, 2 retainers and one cup. Looking at the diagram, I knew there should have been another cup. I couldn't see the upper cup in the housing, it was all rusted and galled. I ended up using a pry bar to pry it out. It took some time, but I wasn't sure if it was even in there since it was in such bad shape.

5) Be prepared to redo or live with things that get scratched or damaged during reassembly. Easy release blue tape is expensive, but paint and time are way more expensive. Be careful and think through all the areas at risk. I never even considered that the fuel tank would be in danger of being scraped by the hood. I was only worried about the points of contact on the front end and dash housing.

6) Keep good documentation of what you spend. It will help if you sell the tractor to prove the parts that have been replaced, and you should have a legitimate amount invested. Plus, when you find that last part you need on ebay, you'll know whether it makes sense to buy or wait.

7) Study the manuals, and search the forums to have a good idea what your getting into.

I'm not done with my 70, so I'm sure there will be more. Hopefully others will jump in with their experiences also, and we can have a good thread for others to refer to.

By 70chevelle
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I would like to add different sized Ziploc bags, parts tags and digital cameras to the process. Having a young family I get little time to work on my own projects so things can stretch out over a long period of time.

When I take apart assemblies I put related parts that will fit in a ziploc bag with a post-it note describing where it came off and any additional information like needing to be replaced or requires paint etc. parts too large for a bag I use parts tags from office depot with the wire tie on them. Again writing the appropriate information that will help me remember months later what I need to do to get it back where it belongs.

And of course with digital cameras so cheap now it makes it really easy to document assemblies before disassemble. Add a few notes in a log to keep them in order and the old saying a picture is worth a thousand words starts to make sense.

by: DaveSaver
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Great point Dave - also brings up the point of 2 of the most important tools for tear down. Masking tape and a Sharpie - color choice is yours! I always mark all electric connections on the wires and other similar parts that aren't getting painted.

by: 70chevelle
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I figured out just recently that there was a rear cover that attaches to the rear end of my 70. (I haven't seen them come up on ebay) My intentions were to make a pattern and cut one out, but I came across another 70 that was more complete. I will pull that piece and fab a new one for the other 70. I'll post some pic's and dimensions for others who may have this part missing.

I was also missing my PTO lever and linkage. The linkages are available through various sources, but I've not seen a lever. Merk, in another post, gave me some dimensions and pic's. I also post some pic's and dimensions as I get this part completed. Here is Merk's post:

" 70 Chevelle
Here is some info on PTO handle. This is from my 100 that I am restoring.

9 3/8 long X 1 wide X 3/16 thick
There are 2 holes in the handle. First hole is 1/2 inch from the one end. The diameter of the hole is 17/32 diameter.
Next hole is 1 7/8 inch from the end. The diameter of this hole is 3/8 inch.

My handle has some hardware that goes with it.



Bushing has a 1/2 outside diameter and a 3/8 inside diameter. The length is 7/8 inch.
Spring is 1 1/2 inches long."

The pic's aren't showing but it's part of the "70 has begun" thread.

If parts aren't available, some are pretty easy to fabricate, if you have the appropriate dimensions. I installed the cross support, that was cut out, under my hood last night. A few minutes with a sharpie and a piece of cardboard and it should look pretty nice. If anyone knows, is the support only attached on the sides? That's what it seems like, and how I did it.

I've also found 3/4" bore x 1 3/8" Hillman bearings for the front wheels at CTS for $2.50 each. I'll post the numbers when I actually purchase them.

By: 70Chevelle
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