982 custom cab? - Page 3

Mountain Heritage · #21 01-24-2016, 06:59 AM

So I picked the 982 up yesterday after being re-powered with a Mag 20. The short period of time I ran it, worked great. It was dog on cold out yesterday, so only loaded it at the shop and then unloaded it at home and parked it in the garage. Worked on wiring the cab up yesterday afternoon. Sprayed some primer paint on the fenders for now to stop them from rusting until I get it painted this summer. Have the 450 blower partially on, need to finish it up. Forgot to check if I had the right belt for the blower before going to dealer - yea, I don't. Only have the one to run a 450 off a 782, too short for the 982. Will see how today goes, might be able to get more done on it? Still not positive how to finish up the shape of the fenders. Leave them square or shape them differently?
Dropped the template off for the doors to get them cut out. Hopefully get them back in the next week or so? I hear the guy is REALLY busy who is going to cut them, that is great for him, might suck for me though? Have the circulation fan coming for inside the cab to keep the windows clear. Ordered it off Amazon for about $50.00, figured I would try it first instead of paying $120.00 from Sims. Hopefully it will do the trick? The reviews seem to be good on it if you can believe them?

R Bedell · #22 01-24-2016, 07:33 AM

Need some pictures....ya know.

ol'George · #23 01-24-2016, 08:45 AM

You mentioned cutting the window glass.
If it is solid tempered, it will shatter into a million pieces if cutting is attempted.
( it can be annealed and cut) but forget it, as price is many dollars.
If laminated safety like windshields, it can be cut to smaller size.
( it is prolly solid tempered)
Alternative:
Acrylic: ( Plexiglas) will not be affected by UV and will not scratch as easy but not as resistant to bullet/projectiles.
FWIW:
I have used both in industrial machine guarding.
Plexiglas cannot be sheared or bent in a break, unless heated.
Lexan (polycarbinate) can be sheared and bent @ room temps.
I'd go with Acrylic. 3/16" or 1/4" (Lowes has it) as for retaining it, trim lok
is name brand, several styles, keyless and keyed ( more expensive)
Example:
Ebay # 221530236184 keyless
Ebay # 221575536809 keyed.
pay attention to glass size and metal thickness.
Hope this helps.

Mountain Heritage · #24 01-24-2016, 07:27 PM

Mr. Bedell asked for some pictures....I can't blame him - I am normally the one chirping about pictures...

Here are a couple I took yesterday before stopping for the day. Didn't get to work on it today unfortunately. I did pick up the electrical connectors I needed so have them for next time I get to work at it. Filled up the propane tank too, so that I can keep my fingers & toes warm too!
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Picked up two smaller red LED lights for the rear of the cab as tail lights. Figure I will put them just above the seam in the steel towards the outside edge.

Think that is the best place for them that they will look okay. I'd put them closer to the bottom of the cab, but the back left corner of the cab isn't filled in yet to balance it out the same as the right corner. However, they may look strange there too since the regular fenders on the 982 have working tail lights. Maybe it would be better to put them int he top corners of the cab?? Have to remember this cab was originally on a newer series tractor, guess they all had the fuel tank in the fenders? Thinking of putting LED lights on the top corners at the front as well, but need to find some that will look right. The ones that were on it were no good, so did away with them for now. I have the lights in the grill for now that will work okay. I might just have to drive a little slower when blowing snow at night so my eyes can catch up!

Will have to pull the manual out again, I bought plates for the blower to make it hit the ground when attached to a Super and well - old age is setting in. I can't seem to remember how/where they attach - the holes don't line up right if I am thinking right. :headscratch:

Wish me LUCK!

Mountain Heritage · #25 01-26-2016, 07:19 AM

Did a little bit more work last night on the wiring. Getting there slowly.
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opted to put the LED tail lights up high since it has working ones already on the rear of the fenders. Would likely be strange with double tail lights.

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Installed two switches between battery and stuff I wanted to run. Put the lights on one switch (with the light wired next to remind me to turn off), then put the fan and the wipers on the other switch. Even though both the wiper and the fan have their own on/off switch, I wanted to be able to cut the power to them to prevent any draw from battery. Or someone switching them on and leaving them on. Don't imagine the fan will be too loud, so might not hear it running and draining the battery? Might get another light and install it for that switch too??

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This is the fan I bought off Amazon. Hefty bugger and seems to be well made? Will know for sure when I power it up! Best part, it fit the bracket in the corner of the cab perfectly, didn't have to drill new holes to mount it!

ACecil · #26 01-26-2016, 12:13 PM

Very nice, Mike! Thanks for the update.

olds45512 · #27 01-26-2016, 03:22 PM

Looks good but how do you open the hood to check the oil or do any other repairs?

Mountain Heritage · #28 01-27-2016, 08:13 AM

Front of cab swings up and out of the way for the hood to flip up as normal. There is two really coarse threaded bolts/screws that hold it closed just above the foot boards, remove them and then it pivots on the two bolts about a foot down from the roof. Not a bad set up really. Will have to get a picture of it to show you.

R Bedell · #29 01-27-2016, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Front of cab swings up and out of the way for the hood to flip up as normal.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Mountain Heritage · #30 01-27-2016, 02:04 PM

Here are some pics of how the front of cab opens up to get the hood to open up as usual.
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This is the coarse threaded bolt/screw that holds the front of cab closed, one on each side of cab at the front, just above the floor boards.

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The pivot bolt near top of the cab. You can also see the one for right side in the picture with the fan in it. About a foot down from roof.

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Front pivoted up in order to gain access to engine as usual (I only lifted it part way, but will pivot up beyond the roof to allow the hood to open with not issues.

Was thinking originally I should bolt the cab shut....after all - who checks the oil in engines anymore?? I perhaps should switch to long life synthetic oil??