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#12
05-31-2013, 08:29 AM
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Been so busy with the house and boat, it's been tough to get time in the shop. I took a break and built a new mantle for the river house, only to discover that I made it too wide (interferes with an adjacent closet door). Failed to follow the "measure twice, cut once" rule! So, that's scrap, and as consolation, I pulled the donor 108 into the shop and took out my frustration by dis-assembling it.
Had to weld nuts to the foot tread screws to get them out, but most of the other bolts came out easily enough. Still soaking the steering column...made one attempt at removal, but no go yet. The clutch is toast. Drained the rear end, it had gear oil in it. Replaced with HyTran. Replaced the axle seals in the process. Everything there looks good. Other than normal wear items (and some rust from sitting outside) it's not in bad shape. Neither of the neutral safety switches work--the PTO switch has failed, and the brake switch doesn't have a spring to actuate it. The P.O. was in the process of trying to replace the ignition switch, thinking that was the problem. I haven't bypassed the safety switches yet to confirm, but will work through that as I replace stuff. Have begun to order parts. Two things I have not had to deal with yet have popped up and I'm hoping I'll get some advice here. The clutch pressure plates are badly pitted and surfacing them will leave them too thin I think. So I need to replace them. What's a good source? Or am I going to ebay? The other item is the release rod pin. I don't see how it's retained in the end of the lift arm. I assume it's broken. I also don't see the float button on the Partstree diagrams for the 108. There was a float button on this, and I pulled it out. the top button (release arm pin) just comes right out of the top. Thoughts? OK, one more question. Can I move the electric lift from the 147 to the 108? Seems it was available on the 108, so that should work, right?
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#14
05-31-2013, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Oh well.
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#16
06-01-2013, 11:06 PM
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OK, I've ordered a spring assist and three point. Now on the hunt for a creeper.
Have ordered most of the other parts for clutch, PTO, lights, etc. Have cleaned up the frame some more. I need to split the tractor to finish sanding, wire brushing the frame and rear end. Need to go to the Case/IH dealer and get some paint. The clutch is on the bench, steering gear is next out for overhaul. IF I can get the steering wheel off. I'm still trying to decide on tires. Probably be 23-10.5 Tru Powers on the back and tri ribs on front.
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#18
06-02-2013, 08:09 PM
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Yes, I'm planning to put a stock clutch back in.
NEWS Flash: Got the steering wheel off! After 5 days of soaking with PB Blaster, using the bolt in the end of the column technique, cushioned with a couple washers bearing on the steering column nut, and a few more whacks with a hammer and pop! off it came. No damage. I removed the front axle today, and knocked out the kingpin sleeves. They no longer supported the spindle assemblies, so they will need to be replaced, along with the kingpin bolts. The axle pivot pin is worn, too. Disassembled the steering gear, the follower stud is badly worn, so that's not really repairable, and new bearings are on the way. I've got a big pile of parts that I'm taking to the bead blaster this week. I think I'm going to try this rather than trying to do it all myself with a grinder and wire wheels. This local shop did all four of my wheels on another tractor for $60 so that seemed reasonable for a couple hours work. steering, brake, etc. parts. I wish I had a decent cabinet blaster set up. I did put in a nice 20 gal parts washer, which is great. But I don't think my 3HP compressor would really keep up with the size sand blaster I'd want. So off to the pro's shop. I think I've found a creeper. I'm about to start sanding and wire brushing the frame and rear end. Need to remove the brake brackets. They'll go to the bead blaster, too.
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#19
06-02-2013, 09:29 PM
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Great looking project! Thanks for posting the pictures as you take things apart! Looking forward to your progress. Maybe I missed it ? is the "R" for red?
Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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#20
06-02-2013, 09:42 PM
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Yes, this will be an "International Red" tractor.
So far, the plans include a 14HP K321, creeper, spring assist, 3pt hitch with sleeve hitch adapter, headlights, tail lights. I have a 48 inch mower deck for it. Other than the color, decals and such, it will be a mostly conventional cub cadet. Except that IH never built a 14 HP gear drive.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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