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  #21  
Old 12-16-2017, 11:55 PM
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jaynjeep jaynjeep is offline
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Looking good!! You got a lot done today!! Keep us posted!!

We had a tandem grain truck once that didn't have equalizers between the front and rear springs.. It worked great on the pavement or hard level dirt.. but we did have traction issues in the field or un level ground. But the rear axle was just a tag axle.. wasn't powered..

I'm interested to see how she works out.. I'm pulling for you... I hope and think it will work with power to the rear axle..

Keep the pics coming!!
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  #22  
Old 12-18-2017, 11:07 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Got my tires mounted today. I was disappointed that I could not mount them with my HF mini tire changer, but after taking them to the auto shop, where even they complained about how stiff they were, I don't feel so lame. And they had an automotive tire machine. Cost $48.00 and tax to have four tires mounted with tubes installed. Sometimes it makes sense to through in the towel, so to speak, and pay the pro.

I mounted a couple tires on one side just to check tire clearances. I was sweating this a little, as I put the two axles 24 inches on center, and assumed I'd have an inch between tires. I checked it out with a pair of turf tires, but wasn't sure how the ags would work out. Luckily, it all worked out. See pics.

I'm now working on linking the two hydro controls. I plan to run a rod from the front trunnion control plate to the rear plate, with the ability to adjust the length so I can sync the two hydros. I don't expect to be able to get it exact but it should be close enough.

Just a note about the brake linkage I installed. Did you know that the little brake actuator links (that pivot to compress the brake pads) are hardened? And that even a cobalt twist drill will just skid off? And that a center punch makes almost no dimple? I had to pull out the carbide twist drill to drill the holes. I got through three of the links, using cutting fluid, before the bit got dull. Sharpened it on the diamond grinder wheel I use for carbide lathe bits.

I only mention this as I expect the hydro control plates to be similar heat treated material. Haven't tried to drill them yet, but my plan is to drill both plates to link them so they move in tandem.

One final note. I put 23x8.50 tires on this build because I had 4 extra 7 inch rims and zero 8 (or is it 8.5?) inch rims. If I had the larger rims, I'd have put 23x10.50 tires on this. FYI, the four deestone 6 ply tires cost $199 shipped from an ebay seller. I normally go to Miller Tire, but didn't see them on their site.
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File Type: jpg 20171218_200522.jpg (18.0 KB, 219 views)
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149-3pt, weights; 72-fenders & 3pt; 123; 148R-creeper, 3pt, spring assist, weights; 128 with rear PTO, Tandem 109 w/ dump bed, 1000-creeper, 3pt, weights; 108-creeper, 3pt & spring assist; 1250; 1450 w/weights; 1650-3pt and weights; a bunch of mower decks, and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; Ford 2000; Kubota BX23--Frank
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  #23  
Old 12-18-2017, 11:12 PM
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Looks good so far. Yeah the plates on the side of the hydros are hardenend. We wanted to bend the one my 2072 so it would line up better with the springs. It didn't bend, just went SNAP! And that was with pry bars while it was still in the machine.
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  #24  
Old 12-19-2017, 06:36 PM
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coming together fast!
So.............what is the planned use for the hydro drive shaft output to the rear of machine?
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  #25  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
coming together fast!
So.............what is the planned use for the hydro drive shaft output to the rear of machine?
That shaft was temporary so I could drive the hydros with a drill for testing purposes. If you look at the youtube video I linked to in post #20, you'll see the drill driving the hydros.

Though, I was looking today at mounting a small hydraulic pump to drive a dump bed cylinder. This one is about 3 inches square, 4000 max rpm, 2 gpm at 3000 psi. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...9714_200329714
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149-3pt, weights; 72-fenders & 3pt; 123; 148R-creeper, 3pt, spring assist, weights; 128 with rear PTO, Tandem 109 w/ dump bed, 1000-creeper, 3pt, weights; 108-creeper, 3pt & spring assist; 1250; 1450 w/weights; 1650-3pt and weights; a bunch of mower decks, and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; Ford 2000; Kubota BX23--Frank
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  #26  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:20 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
Though, I was looking today at mounting a small hydraulic pump to drive a dump bed cylinder. This one is about 3 inches square, 4000 max rpm, 2 gpm at 3000 psi. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...9714_200329714
Cheaper to get a ported hydro pump. Easier to hook up to also. Could even use the 1X8 series hydraulics. I'd buy a ported hydro pump and a cylinder from Surplus Center.

Nice job so far Frank!
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  #27  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:41 PM
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That's coming along very nicely. If you do decide to mount a pump off the rear for the dump bed, be sure to have enough capacity in your hydraulic reservoir to help cool the oil. Having the pump turning constantly will create some added heat. Keep the pictures coming!
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  #28  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:56 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
That's coming along very nicely. If you do decide to mount a pump off the rear for the dump bed, be sure to have enough capacity in your hydraulic reservoir to help cool the oil. Having the pump turning constantly will create some added heat. Keep the pictures coming!
While that is a good point, that pump is smaller than the charge pump on the hydro, which runs all the time.

Another note about using a ported pump is the hydro's do help cool the oil. Whether using a seperate pump, or a hydro, one or both rears can still be sued as a reservoir.
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  #29  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:58 PM
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OK, some more progress, and obligatory pics.

I cleaned up the frame, did some sanding, and put some color on the rest of the frame. Rattle can paint. Mostly so it would all be the same shade of yellow. The rest of the painting will probably wait until after I've had a chance to do a test drive.

Mounted the remaining (port side) wheels and removed the jack stands.

Spent the next couple hours drilling the control plates and creating the adjustable link between the two plates. It's important that the attachment points at the two plates be at the same distance from the shaft so both points move the same amount as the lever is moved. If one attachment point were to be further away from the central point of rotation, it would move further than the other point and the two plates would not move in sync.

Drilling the plates was a chore. Again, had to resort to a solid carbide twist drill bit. Thank goodness for McMaster Carr. Also, in case you are interested I had to buy a LH die to thread the link rods. I had the standard (RH) taps and dies, but you need a LH die as well if you are using a turnbuckle. McMaster Carr is a great resource (mcmaster.com). Stuff I order arrives in less than 48 hours.

If you decide to buy a solid carbide twist drill bit, you might as well buy a couple. They are very brittle and easily broken. I've used them to drill out stubborn spirol pins. Use them carefully, if they snag in the hole, they will likely break off. Then you're in a pickle. A carbide bit (or any drill bit really) broken off in a hole is a problem for sure.

I have some reservations about the rod and turnbuckle hydro linkage. I used them for the brakes, but those are always in tension. A rod and turnbuckle arrangement is not the best arrangement in compression. I'm unsure about the level of stress that will be placed on this hydro linkage. I thought about using a flat piece of steel, 1/8 by 3/4, long enough to connect the two plates. But I need to be able to adjust the length so the two hydros can be synchronized, specifically in neutral. A pair of flat plates with slots and bolts would allow some length adjustment. Alternately, I may take the spare hydro control rod that came out of the 147 (5/16 rod I think) and cut it and weld in a new section to make it longer. This rod has the ball joint linkage at each end, with some room for length adjustment. I didn't want to do that because I didn't want any play in the linkage and the ball ends have a bit of play. So we will see how this works.

Next up is to clean the carb and get this engine running again. As I mentioned, I have another engine (10 or 12 hp, don't remember which right now) that I can drop in.

Thinking ahead, I will need to temporarily mount some sort of seat to test this thing out once I get the engine running.
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149-3pt, weights; 72-fenders & 3pt; 123; 148R-creeper, 3pt, spring assist, weights; 128 with rear PTO, Tandem 109 w/ dump bed, 1000-creeper, 3pt, weights; 108-creeper, 3pt & spring assist; 1250; 1450 w/weights; 1650-3pt and weights; a bunch of mower decks, and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; Ford 2000; Kubota BX23--Frank
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  #30  
Old 12-19-2017, 11:33 PM
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maybe an alternative adjustable hydro synclink could be like a tierod.
Tubular steel tube internally threaded LH and RH with male NF yoke ends?
The tubing would be much stronger pushing than the rod or the flat stock.
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