GT 2554 Problems Running

[Goofus]

Well, I don't have specific familiarity with that engine but I'd suggest after over-heating so often it's going to require some detective work to make sure there is not other damage beyond whatever leak is likely to be causing the core issue. First off, I'd suggest (with proper gloves/burn protection) checking compression after it overheats.

There could be a leaky valve that leans out the fuel mix or even sticks when hot, there could be a crack somewhere that only opens when hot (head gasket, ring, cylinder, block, etc), warped head, could have a weak or cracked valve spring, could even have a clogged crankcase breather that causes pressure to build and lean out the engine. Stranger things have happened ..... (carefully) checking the compression cold and hot will at least eliminate or indicate whether one of these is possible.

[Leadslingingdaddy]

Check valve lash also...

[ironman]

Originally Posted by ol'George

But, have you checked valve clearance?
I'm thinking it is an OHV engine
Disclaimer:
I am not familiar with your engine/tractor.

Hydraulic lifters, no valve adjustment.
I thought about a collapsing lifter but I'd think there would be worse indications than just shutting down.
This is a pick of my GT2554 after the rocker arm nut loosened and the rocker arm jumped off the push rod.
No damage done but lots of popping and backfire.
Scared the hell out of me.

[Joes454ss]

did you check does it have a solenoid on the carb mine went bad once

[ejl6658]

As mentioned above you could have a head gasket issue or an intake throttle body issue at the carb or heads.. A compression test when hot and it shuts down could show an issue. If you have low compression on one or both cylinders when hot then you would have to do a leak down test to point you in the direction of the leak in the combustion chamber.

[ejl6658]

Wouldn't start and run if the solenoid on the carb was bad.

[Wicked6]

Thank you all for the excellent thoughts. I have checked compression but only when it is cold. Good on both sides when cold so I will check when hot and see how it reads then.

It does have the solenoid on the carb as well.

Crank case breather is on top near the carb and appears to be free as far as I can tell.

[guyina4x4]

I suspect you're losing power to the carb solenoid.
Could be a faulty ignition switch
I'd hook a test light to the carb solenoid power wire and see if that's losing power.
If the power is ok I'd suspect the solenoid is getting hot and failing.
If you are in fact losing fuel from a direct supply that is the only thing that can be stopping it. Other than trash in the carb itself.

[Wicked6]

Thanks. That’s a good point about that solenoid getting hot also. The ignition switch is part of that control module assembly that is mounted under the dash board and I replaced that whole unit also thinking that might be a problem.

At one point over winter I also traced all the wires from that and tested all of the engine safety switches to make sure they were operating correctly. Everything of course checked out leading to the thought on fuel delivery.

I will check that solenoid as well. It has a new carb am pretty sure it didn’t come with a new solenoid on it.

[Oak]

Cut the tip of it off and eliminate it.