Splitting 123 - Page 3

darkminion_17 · #21 03-10-2021, 05:55 PM

Oh you don't wanna go there...

jbrewer · #22 03-10-2021, 07:36 PM

Is that a "yes, you would have to get the diff out in order to pull that pinion out" ?

Of course that would mean the axles would have to be pulled.

No wonder this 123 job is not in the service manual. The design engineers were taken out and shot.

finsruskw · #23 03-10-2021, 07:48 PM

I doubt if the pads are bad as they run in oil.

ironman · #24 03-10-2021, 07:51 PM

You don't wanna be removing no pinions.
Once you have the tractor split, rotate the housing 90 degrees so that the input shaft is pointing straight up.
After you get the pivot pin, brake lever, and push rod out, there will be a steel ball down in the puck. You gotta get that ball out, it will probably be rusted in there real good.
Much soaking with PB Blasted and tapping and whatever else you can do may eventually free it up.
Once the ball is out you will have some depth to the hole and you will have to concoct devices that you can get down in there to grip the insides of the hole and pull the puck up and out.
Nothing will be holding the puck in, but it does have a rubber "O" ring that will put up resistance. There will be alot of rust and crud to deal with also, so lottsa PB.
If you are successful in getting the puck out you can clean it up, clean its cylinder up so that it slides smoothly, install it with a new "O" ring and I think you will be in business.

jbrewer · #25 03-11-2021, 08:13 AM

I will give that a go.... Thanks IM. Pivot rod is slowly giving way. It's doing a PB soak right now

I do have some Kroil and PB blaster and I'll start it soaking and see what happens.

Fins, thanks for that description. It does make sense that in such an environment there's likely almost no wear. It's not like these things were in stop and go traffic either.

I can see why they went to the external disks in later models.

I should write an addendum to the manual:

How To Replace Brake Pads (CC 123)

1) "Remove engine , Split tractor, disassemble entire rear end assembly."
2) "Buy wide frame with external disks"

Cubcadet_107 · #26 03-11-2021, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer

I should write an addendum to the manual:

How To Replace Brake Pads (CC 123)

1) "Remove engine , Split tractor, disassemble entire rear end assembly."
2) "Buy wide frame with external disks"

Now hey, not all the narrow frames have internal brakes!!

Speaking of, I should really get around to mounting the external brake gear to my 107, so when the time comes to change the hydro fluid I'm ready to swap the axles for the ones with brake discs. Guess I got lucky with my replacement rear, the internal brake actually works!

jbrewer · #27 03-11-2021, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

You don't wanna be removing no pinions.
Once you have the tractor split, rotate the housing 90 degrees so that the input shaft is pointing straight up.
After you get the pivot pin, brake lever, and push rod out, there will be a steel ball down in the puck. You gotta get that ball out, it will probably be rusted in there real good.
Much soaking with PB Blasted and tapping and whatever else you can do may eventually free it up.
Once the ball is out you will have some depth to the hole and you will have to concoct devices that you can get down in there to grip the insides of the hole and pull the puck up and out.
Nothing will be holding the puck in, but it does have a rubber "O" ring that will put up resistance. There will be alot of rust and crud to deal with also, so lottsa PB.
If you are successful in getting the puck out you can clean it up, clean its cylinder up so that it slides smoothly, install it with a new "O" ring and I think you will be in business.

OK...I got the ball out.

It didn't move at first

Soaked it with PB

Came back in 10 min and used a pickup magnet (the really strong ones). It moved just enough so I could see the puddle of PB around it wiggle minutely.

More PB, more wiggle with magnet. Once it moved a bit, used nozzle on PB to force solvent under the ball (spraying blow-by back in my face). :-) Kept wiggling with magnet and PB flush and it came out.

Now the puck is soaking. Will have to see if I can get any grip on the inside with something like snap ring pliers or something like that.

Edit: A really short, fat EZout is handy if used carefully.

jbrewer · #28 03-11-2021, 11:32 AM

Old American tools + old American shadetree wrench + valuable advice = another biggly Imgur picture .

Plenty of brake pad left. Still has all the cross hatching on the rotor. This has been frozen in place for a very long time. I'll have to find the o-ring somewhere, but the brake pad is, as you all suggested, AOK.

ironman · #29 03-11-2021, 12:22 PM

HooRay for you!

jbrewer · #30 03-11-2021, 12:39 PM

Thanks! I would NOT have gotten it out without the big a55 easy out and the help given here.

After blaster, I get the EZout to bite a bit, just trying to get the puck to turn. When it did, I kept lubing with PB and made about 10 turns to free it up. Then more PB and lifted gently while turning the puck in the bore some more. I was surprised to see it lift out during about 5 more turns.

There's a little bit of burring on the edge of the inside of the puck, but I'll dress that with a dremel and it'll be good as it's not really a finished surface (other than to accept the ball).

I remember buying this old little Kennedy tool box for about 5$ 10 yrs or so ago. It's got torch tips, a bunch of taps and as I vaguely recalled this morning, a few mondo size EZouts. The previous owner must have worked on a farm or did heavy equipment work.

Almost every tool has a purpose if you wait long enough.

Thanks for the tips. You gentlemen are life savers.