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#11
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Quote:
Crack the gas cap just in case.
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall? 1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck |
#12
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Thanks for your thoughts, everyone; I appreciate it. The problem has changed. Now it's difficult to start, and runs for about 2-3 seconds, then dies. I think this points more toward fuel than electric, yes? I have not cleaned the carb. I don't have all the cleaning tools and fluids that people on Youtube seem to use for carb cleaning. I'm thinking about replacing the carb with a new one, which are not expensive. Thoughts?
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#13
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You do not really need a bunch of expensive tools to clean the carb. Chances are main jet is clogged. Take the carb off. Remove bowl. From here I like to soak entire carb in carb cleaner. Then, carefully remove main. Clean the jet out. Hold it up and see if you can see daylight through it. You can buy a wire set at harbor freight for $5 .
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#14
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This is all you need. If you own torches, you may already have this
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#15
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If squirting a little fuel in the carb when it begins to stall/stop allows it to keep running, you have a fuel delivery issue.
if it makes no difference you have an electrical problem. don't get any simpler than that. |
#16
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All you need to clean a carb is an old bread bag tie, strip off the plastic and use the wire inside. Poke it in every little hole you see.
And a can of carb spray.
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JD x475 |
#17
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Put a can under carb, pull the bowl and then turn the fuel on. You should have good supply of fuel coming down. If so, the carb is likely culprit. If not, backtrack the fuel delivery problem. A lot of times, it's crap in the bowl area and around needle seat.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#18
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China carbs are cheap and it is a crap shoot to get a good one. Clean the one you have.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#19
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Maybe replace all fuel line first from tank to carb. Old line can start collapsing and you won't realize it. Pretty cheap to start off with. Not sure if the 2166 has a fuel pump, if it does that could be part of problem also....
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#20
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Was given a riding mower to fix sometime ago with the same exact issues that yours was doing in the beginning. In my instance the valve reliefs were way out of adjustment and too tight. Would run fine for a little while then it would surge a few seconds and die. It would start right back up but die in less than half the time as the first. Took me a while to figure it out. Ran fine after the adjustments were made. But never had the hard to start thing that you are suffering. Just wanted to muddy the waters a bit.
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